Ontario Chardonnay Musqué

May 9, 2012 By Sarah Goddard in Wines of Ontario Tags: Cave Spring Cellars, Chardonnay, Chateau des Charmes, Malivoire Wine Company, Ontario wine, Vineland Estates Winery Leave a comment

‘Chardonnay Musqué‘ is a name that’s appearing more and more on Ontario wine labels – currently there are at least 3 or 4 available at my nearest Vintages store. “What exactly is Chardonnay Musqué?”, you may be asking. Well, it’s actually a special clone of Chardonnay. The term “musqué” can be applied to certain varieties or clones of grapes that means both “musky” and “Muscat-like” and indicates a perfumed or highly aromatic grape.

There are over 40 different clones of Chardonnay, but only two of these can be called “Musqué” due to their aromatic qualities – Clone 77 and Clone 809. They are generally unoaked in order to preserve the fresh and fragrant aromas natural to the grape. Several Ontario vineyards are now planted with musqué clones and the grapes may be used as either part of a blend or bottled on their own. Generally, these wines are best when consumed relatively young. The aromas of Chardonnay Musqué are reminiscent of Viognier or even Torrontes, and it can be made in a range of styles from dry to a little sweet to quite sweet, sometimes even with a slight spritz. Enjoy a chilled glass of Chardonnay Musqué on a warm spring or summer day, either on its own or pair it with mild curries, sushi, salads, grilled salmon, and seafood.

Several Ontario wineries are using one or both Chardonnay Musqué clones in their wines. 13th Street’s delicious White Palette uses Chardonnay Musqué as part of the blend, while other producers, such as Chateau des Charmes, Cave Spring Cellars, Vineland Estates, Malivoire, Ravine Vineyard, and Fielding Estates, to name a few, prefer to bottle the clone on its own.

A few Ontario Chardonnay Musqués:

Chateau des Charmes 2010 Chardonnay Musqué: Paul Bosc, founder of Chateau des Charmes, chose the particularly fragrant and interesting Clone 809 for his Chardonnay Musqué. The first 2 rows were planted at Chateau des Charmes in 1993, another 2 rows in 1995, and finally a whole block was planted with Clone 809 in 1999. Chateau des Charmes first bottled the clone on its own in very small quantities in 2002. Today, only 500 cases are bottled by the winery annually. The 2010 Chardonnay Musqué has fragrant aromas of honeysuckle, cherry blossoms, grapefruit, and green apple. Dry with crisp citrus, mineral, and spicy notes on the palate with refreshing acidity and a lingering finish. ($16.95) *2012 Ontario Wine Awards Gold Medal Winner in the Unoaked Chardonnay category.*

Cave Spring Cellars 2009 Chardonnay Musqué: This wine is made from 100% Chardonnay Musqué Clone 77, first planted in Cave Spring‘s vineyards in 1984. The first vintage bottled was 1988. The 2009 vintage shows pronounced aromas of orange blossom, melon, honey, grapefruit, and ripe apple. This is a dry wine with zesty acidity and flavours of lemon and grapefruit, peach, and a hint of spice with a lively and refreshing finish. ($15.95)

Vineland Estates 2010 Chardonnay Musqué: Showing floral and ripe tropical fruit aromas, Vineland Estates 2010 Chardonnay Musqué is very reminiscent of Viognier. Loads of lemon and grapefruit zest with soft floral notes, peach and nectarine. Off-dry on the palate, the residual sugar is beautifully balanceed by the ample acidity. Exotic fruit flavours, citrus, and minerals burst on the palate with a pleasantly lingering finish.($17.95)

Malivoire 2010 Musqué Spritz: Made from Clone 809 planted in Malivoire‘s Estate Vineyard in 1999. This wine is Ontario’s version of Italy’s Moscato d’Asti. Sweet melon, grape, peach, and floral aromas dominate the nose. A slight spritz balances the generous dose of residual sugar. Only 9% alcohol. Can be paired with light curries and other slightly spicy dishes, but also has enough sweetness to pair with some fruit-based desserts. ($19.95)

Ontario’s Virtual Wineries

April 3, 2012 By Sarah Goddard in Wines of Ontario Tags: 100 Marks, 2027 Cellars, Charles Baker, Leaning Post, Nyarai Cellars, Steve Byfield, Thomas Bachelder, Virtual Wineries 2 Comments

“It doesn’t matter where you make the wine, it’s the quality of the fruit,” declared Kevin Panagapka of 2027 Cellars at a recent tasting of 6 virtual Ontario wineries. This seems to be the general mantra of all the talented winemakers showcasing their wares on that dreary Saturday in Toronto. What is a ‘virtual winery’ exactly? A ‘virtual winery’ has no building, no tasting room, no cellar, no bricks and mortar at all to call its own. Essentially, the ‘virtual winery’ model is a way for a winemaker to practice his or her craft without having to come up with the astronomical investment needed to build a winery and purchase land. Instead, they buy grapes from trusted grape growers and rent space from existing wineries and use their facilities, and the internet serves as their retail store. It’s a model that has been found around the world for decades, but it has increased in popularity in recent years, including right here in Ontario.

‘Virtual winery’ is a term that’s used mainly in North America. Thomas Bachelder, who makes wine in 3 so-called virtual wineries in 3 different countries, prefers the term ‘micro négoce’ or ‘micro négociant’ instead. A ‘négociant’ is a wine merchant, usually French, who buys grapes and vinifies them, or buys wine and blends them, and then sells the wine under his or her own label. Négociants who specialize in very limited-production wines would be ‘micro négociants’. It fits.

I think the term ‘terroir négociant‘ also aptly describes this growing group of winemakers. Some time ago, Jancis Robinson, wrote an article called “Burgundy’s New Breed of Negociants,” in which she calls these smaller, quality-driven merchants ‘terroir merchants‘, as “they are every bit as passionate about squeezing terroir, or a sense of place, into a bottle as those who run the best small domaines” (Jancis Robinson). While Jancis is referring to a special group of winemakers in Burgundy, I think this also applies to the owners of our very own ‘micro negociants’ here in Ontario.

The 6 winemakers who gathered at Canoe in Toronto on Saturday, all proudly spoke about hand-selecting the healthiest grapes and minimal intervention in the winemaking process in order to bring out the full expression of the grapes and the unique terroir of the vineyards.

Bachelder Wines

Thomas Bachelder makes wine in 3 different wine regions – Oregon, Burgundy, and Niagara. He buys organic grapes wherever possible and rents space in wineries to make the wines. In Niagara, he makes the wines out of Southbrook Vineyards. One day he hopes to go to bricks and mortar and own his own domaine, but right now he’s happy as a micro négociant. He’s dedicated to illustrating the unique expression of the 3 different terroirs he works with so he’s made all 3 Chardonnays in the same way – “It’s not only Meursault that can show terroir,” he says. To read my full tasting notes on Bachelder’s 3 2009 Chardonnays, please read “Bachelder’s Trio of Chardonnays”. (I highly recommend all 3 Chardonnays.)

Charles Baker

Charles Baker is one of the original ‘virtual wineries’ in Niagara. His wine (he only makes Riesling) is made at Stratus and his grapes come from the Picone Vineyard and, since 2010, the Ivan Vineyard. He now has 7 vintages under his belt with 2005 as the inaugural vintage. Right now he is only interested in making wine with Riesling. When asked, Charles did say that if he had a winery, he would be interested in working with Gamay, but that he certainly has no plans to own his own winery right now.

Riesling 2010 Picone Vineyard: (11.5% abv., 18 g/l rs.) 2010 was a very warm vintage so this wine is a bit broader than the other 3 in the line-up. There’s a pretty floral note with lots of mineral, lime and green apple aromas. The acid is crisp, even for a warm year, with flavours of peach, mineral, and green fruit with a touch of smoke on the finish.

Riesling 2009 Picone Vineyard: (10.5 % abv., 27 g/l rs.) 2009 was very cool and wet until the autumn when the sun shone for about 6 weeks, saving the vintage. The grapes had already captured relatively high acidity which shows through in the wine. Aromas of petrol, smoke, wet stone, and citrus. Nervy and tense on the palate with a good dose of residual sugar to balance the high acid. Really good.

Riesling 2005: Very much alive and kicking! Still lots of fruit on the nose – green apple, lemon/lime – with aromas of petrol and wet stone. The palate is beginning to show signs of maturity with yellow apple, sultana raisins, earth, and petrol. Off-dry to balance the acid. A wine with lots of character.

Nyarai Cellars

Nyarai, made by winemaker and owner Steve Byfield, used to be made out of Calamus, but they have recently moved over to Diprofio Wines. Nyarai began in 2008 with grapes from the 2007 vintage and quickly became known for crisp, flavourful Sauvignon Blanc. Steve also makes other white wines using Chardonnay and Viognier, as well as delicious red blends.

2011 Sauvignon Blanc: 30% was fermented in 5 to 6 year old barrels. This wine has aromas of fresh hay, grapefruit, mineral, citrus, and gooseberry. Crisp and juicy on the palate with a long length. Another great Sauvignon Blanc from Nyarai!

2010 Viognier: 100% stainless steel. Medium intensity with notes of honeysuckle, orange zest, peach, and apricot. A creamy texture with very great acidity for a Viognier. Long finish.

2010 Red Blend barrel sample. To be named “Cadence”. This wine is still in barrel (all old oak) and the blend has not been finalized, but it will contain Syrah, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot. This very young wine has aromas of lead pencil, chocolate, plum and other dark fruit. A little white pepper on the palate in addition to dark fruit, mineral and spice. The tannins are still young and quite fuzzy, but should soften with more time. I’m looking forward to trying the final wine, as there is lots of potential here!

100 Marks

Made by Jeff Hundertmark, winemaker at Marynissen, these wines are made under Marynissen’s licence and Jeff rents space from his employer to make his wines. While Jeff says that he doesn’t focus on any particular grape or style of wine, he makes wines that Marynissen doesn’t produce. He doesn’t label his wines varietally because he wants people to focus on what’s in the bottle, not on what’s on the label.

White Merlot 2011: (100% Merlot, 11% abv, 24 g/l rs) The grapes were all hand-harvested and pressed right away. Any pink that leached into the juice from the Merlot grapes settled out through the winemaking process and now this wine is a pale lemon colour. Very fruity aromas of peach, pear, almost like fruit cup syrup. Very light and easy drinking with a soft sweetness.

2010 Red: (91% Pinot Noir from St. David’s Bench, 9% Gamay from 35 year old vines in Four Mile Creek) Notes of campfire smoke, toast, vanilla, and dark berries. A sturdy structure with good acidity and firm, but ripe tannins. Good length.

2027 Cellars

Kevin Panagapka is the winemaker and owner of 2027 Cellars and he rents space out of Featherstone Estate Winery to make the wines. He began this virtual winery in 2007 and makes single vineyard Riesling (except 2010), Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir, as Kevin believes these are the best grapes for Niagara’s climate. Kevin admits that he owns a virtual winery because he can’t afford to build one, but he claims he would like to one day. He only makes a tiny amount of wine which typically sells out very quickly.

2011 Fox Croft Vineyard Riesling: (11 g/l rs., 9 g acid) A complex nose of wet stone, ripe peach, green apple, citrus, and tangerine zest. The zesty acid is balanced by a little residual sugar and ripe fruit flavours, a touch of petrol, and wonderful Niagara minerality. Long length.

2010 Queenston Road Pinot Noir: This wine underwent a wild fermentation, a wild malolactic fermentation and is unfined and unfiltered. It was aged in 30% new Burgundian oak and 70% old oak. Overflowing with aromas of smoky cherry, cranberry, earth, spice, and pink blossoms. A very silky texture with sweet vanilla, ripe cherry, mineral, and dark spice flavours that linger forever. Fantastic!

Leaning Post

Ilya and Nadia Senchuk named their virtual winery ‘Leaning Post’ after the posts found at the end of each row of vines that supports the wires on which the vines grow. Leaning Post is also a reference to the support of friends and family that the couple have had to lean on in order to make their dream of owning a winery a reality. Their goal is to take unique single vineyard sites in Niagara and turn them into distinct, terroir-driven wines. In 2011 they purchased a property in Winona which will eventually become the site of their real bricks and mortar winery.

2009 Foxcroft Riesling: The grapes were picked very late – on Nov 2 and 3 – at 22 Brix. The wine spent 15 months on the lees. (13 g/l rs, 10 g acid, 12.5% abv.) Complex aromas of petrol, grapefruit, green apple, peach, mineral, and smoke with a slightly floral note. Delicious and juicy on the palate with a long length. Finishes quite dry despite a little residual sugar. One of my favourite wines of the tasting!

2009 Lowrey Vineyard Pinot Noir: 32 year old vines. Grapes were picked October 28 and the wine spent 14 months in 40% new French and 60% 5 year old French barrels and underwent a light filter. This wine is brimming with aromas of cranberry, rhubarb, cherry, beetroot, and smoked meat. Tannins are still a bit firm so decant if drinking now, or cellar for a couple of years.

2010 Lowrey Vineyard Pinot Noir: (barrel sample). This wine is still in barrel and Ilya said he’s not sure yet when it will be bottled. Being from a warmer vintage, this wine has riper, richer fruit than the 2009 with lots of ripe cherry, currant, strawberry, spice, and smoked meat aromas. Fine tannins and a silky texture. I’m looking forward to the finished product.

The Wines of Alvaro Palacios – Part 2 – Bierzo

March 29, 2012 By Sarah Goddard in Wines of Spain Tags: Alvaro Palacios, Bierzo, Mencia Leave a comment

Alvaro Palacios makes complex and compelling wine in 3 very different Spanish wine regions – Priorat, Bierzo, and Rioja. The Wines of Alvaro Palacios – Part 1- Priorat discusses Alvaro’s Priorat wines, and this post will cover the wines of Descendientes de J. Palacios in Bierzo.

Bierzo

Located in northwestern Spain, Bierzo has all the ‘ingredients’ Alvaro Palacios believes are necessary to create great wine – steep slopes, distinctive terroirs, ancient vines – so in 1999, he and his nephew, Ricardo Perez, started to make wine there. The project was named Descendientes de J. Palacios, as an homage to José Palacios, Alvaro’s father and Ricardo’s grandfather.

The area is beautiful. The verdant landscape and castle-studded hills undoubtedly contributed to Alvaro and Ricardo’s love for the region. The soil in vineyards in the western part of the region, the location of the Descendientes de J. Palacios’ vineyards, are ancient, mineral-rich slate which are helpful in regulating water.

Mencia

The Mencia grape is the star of Bierzo. For a long time, Mencia was thought to be directly related to Cabernet Franc, but DNA profiling has recently proven that this is not the case. They did, however, discover that Mencia is the same as Jaen, a grape variety that can be found growing in Dao, Portugal. The reputation of Mencia is on the rise, and some believe that it is one of Spain’s 4 greatest grape varieties. Mencia can be made in a variety of different styles, from easy-drinking fruity wines to more complex, long-lived versions.

Tasting Notes of Decendientes de J. Palacios:

Petalos del Bierzo 2010: Alvaro described the cool and dry 2010 vintage as being “the vintage of enchantment”. The grapes are from 4 villages in the region and are a blend of both purchased and estate fruit. This may be an entry level wine, but it definitely shows the quality of all Palacios’ wines with a fragrance of violets, blueberry, plum, and a minerality that is reminiscent of lead pencils. A creamy texture and fuzzy tannins on the palate and a good length. $26

Villa de Corullon, Bierzo 2009: Grapes are from steeply-sloped vineyards in the village of Corullon. Complex aromas of dried herbs, dark raspberry, cherry, blueberry, rose petals, and cinnamon. Very fruit forward on the palate with quite concentrated fruit flavours, a firm structure and a long length. $49

Las Lamas, Bierzo 2009: Grapes are from the single vineyard of Las Lamas located about 750 m above sea level. This vineyard is very low yielding at around 9 hl/ha which, in part explains the price of this wine. Intense perfume of ripe dark plum, juicy blackberry, spice and flowers. Very concentrated with a velvetty texture and a lingering length. $116

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The Wines of Alvaro Palacios – Part 1 – Priorat

March 25, 2012 By Sarah Goddard in Wines of Spain Tags: Alvaro Palacios, Grenache, Priorat, Spain Leave a comment

Alvaro Palacios’ name seems to be on every Spanish wine lover’s lips these days and it’s no wonder – this exciting winemaker makes outstanding and compelling wines. Born in a Rioja winery into a family with 350 years experience in the wine industry, wine is definitely and passionately coursing through his veins. Some see him as a visionary and even as a revolutionary of Spanish wine, and while the wines of Alvaro Palacios are modern, they also show a deep respect for tradition and the unique terroir of each of his vineyards.

Alvaro currently makes wine in 3 very different Spanish wine regions – Priorat, Rioja, and Bierzo. There are certain ingredients Alvaro believes are necessary to make great wines and he looks for these when deciding on a new region to grow and craft his wines. He believes that a monastic or religious background is very important. “Monks brought viticulture to a spiritual level,” he says, and he adds that the old monasteries “add a sense of mystery to the place.”

A traditional culture in the region is also important. Alvaro told the crowd of wine professionals in Toronto earlier this week that “a traditional culture along with a special site makes magical wines.” He has returned to traditional methods of cultivation by using an organic approach and by reverting to bush-trained vines, which he feels do better in the hot Spanish sun.

He admires French winemakers who understand the importance of vineyard sites, or crus, and who have developed some of these sites for centuries, which is why Alvaro is attracted to sites with very old vines.

Priorat

After Alvaro studied winemaking in France, most notably at Bordeaux’s Ch. Petrus, he began making wine in Priorat, an hour and a half drive south of Barcelona, Spain and an hour west of the Mediterranean Sea. He was attracted to the area because of the rugged beauty of the place, the ancient monastery, the old vines, the steep slopes, and the slate soil. Rene Barbier, an important Priorat winemaker who had asked him to join a new vineyard project in Priorat, made the region even more attractive. He couldn’t refuse such an offer. It was 1989 and Alvaro describes Priorat as being a “diamond in the rough.” In 1993, he bought L’Ermita, the vineyard that produces the grapes that go into his flagship wine of the same name. Unfortunately, we did not taste L’Ermita at this event.

Camins del Priorat 2010: This wine is made with grapes from relatively young vines and are sourced from 7 different villages. A small percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon is added to the Garnacha and it was aged for 8 months in wooden vats and barrels. This wine is full of red berry fruit with spice and fennel. Soft and silky on the palate with rich red fruit and a strawberry finish. Good length. $26

Les Terrasses 2010 Priorat: The vines are older (about 75 years old) and as Alvaro says, “Old vines have wisdom.” The grapes are grown in the same 7 villages as the Camins wine but there is also more Carignan added to the blend. Rich aromas of ripe red fruit, black licorice, fennel, and spice. More concentrated than the Camins and with a firmer structure. Long finish. $45

Gratallops 2010 Priorat: This is a Village Appellation wine and the grapes are sourced from 6 vineyards in the village. The 2010 vintage we tasted is still in barrel (it will be bottled sometime in the next couple of months after spending approximately 16 months in barrel.) The blend is about 60% Garnacha with Carignan making up the rest. This wine is very fragrant with aromas of blueberry, red plum, spice, pink flowers, vanilla, and a hint of dill and fennel. This is still a very young wine and the somewhat aggressive tannins will mellow with time. Very concentrated and balanced with creamy vanilla on the long finish. An excellent wine. $66

Finca Dofi 2009 Priorat: A single vineyard wine made up of 80% Garnacha with the remainder being Cabernet and Syrah. The nose is very complex with a perfume of strawberry, cherry, turkish delight, cinnamon, cardamon, and a hint of mint. Concentrated and velvetty on the palate with rich fruit flavours and spice. Beautifully balanced with a finish that lingers seemingly forever. $99

The wines of Alvaro Palacios are available in Ontario through Woodman Wines and Spirits.

Sparkling Icewine – Uniquely Canadian

March 13, 2012 By Sarah Goddard in Ontario Wineries, Wines of Ontario Tags: Icewine, Inniskillin, Karl Kaiser, Konrad Ejbich, Sparkling Icewine 3 Comments

Everybody knows that Canada makes the best Icewine in the world. We did not invent Icewine – it is believed the first Eiswein was made in Germany in the 1700s – but year after year, we produce fabulous Icewines that garner numerous international awards. However, Sparkling Icewine was invented in Canada and is uniquely Canadian.

The story of sparkling Icewine goes back to 1988 and Canadian wine writer Konrad Ejbich. I had the pleasure of speaking with Konrad a few days ago and he was eager to tell the story of how it all began…

Back in 1988, Konrad was given a box of half bottles of tank samples of 1987 vintage Inniskillin Icewine. He put the bottles in his basement with the intention of drinking them soon. Three or four days later, he noticed a small stream of liquid trickling across his basement floor. After a short investigation, he found that one of the corks had blown right out of the bottle and that a few of the other corks had started to work their way out. Knowing that these were tank samples that had not been filtered and that presumably still contained some viable yeast, Konrad guessed that a second fermentation had begun. Curious as to what may happen, he tied the remaining corks down and waited. Not too long afterwards, the pressure built up in the bottles caused one of them to explode, so Konrad poured the remaining Icewine into much stronger Champagne bottles (after consuming the original contents), tied the corks down again and waited some more. At Christmastime, Konrad opened a bottle and tasted the wine. In his own words, “It was amazing! It was softer, richer, creamier, and foamy. It had a mellow texture and was not quite as sweet.”

For a while, Konrad had dreams of making a business out of crafting his own Sparkling Icewine and selling it to the world. He imagined riches and red Ferraris. He sat on the idea for a few years. In 1996, realizing he had no way of making his dream a reality, he wrote a column in Wine Tidings Magazine describing his discovery and putting a challenge out to winemakers to make sparkling Icewine on a commercial level. If they were successful, all Konrad wanted in return was a case of the wine.

In 1997, Magnotta was the first winery to make an Icewine sparkle with their release of Sparkling Ice. This wine was artificially carbonated and was not allowed to be labelled as VQA as there was no category for this style of wine. They were also not permitted to use the term Icewine, hence the name Sparkling Ice. This wine has been very successful for the company and they have won numerous awards for the wine.

Then, after extensive research and experimentation by Inniskillin‘s co-founder and winemaker Karl Kaiser, Ontario’s first VQA Sparkling Icewine was released with Inniskillin’s 1998 vintage, just in time to celebrate the Millenium. This wine was made with Vidal grapes and using the Charmat method where the second fermentation creates bubbles which are captured under pressure in a sealed stainless steel tank. The Vidal Sparkling Icewine was such a huge success, that they continue to make this unique wine.

Pillitteri Estates Winery has also released a few sparkling Icewines using the Charmat or Cuve Close method. They currently have the 2004 Sparkling Vidal Icewine available at the winery that sells for $60/375 ml. While Inniskillin has only made a Vidal Sparkling Icewine, Pillitteri has also had a 2008 Cabernet Sparkling Icewine that they are now sold out of.

Food Pairings

Sparkling Icewine are the most food friendly of all the Icewines as the bubbles cut the sweetness of the wine allowing a wider range of pairing choices. Pair Sparkling icewine with spicy dishes, rich cheeses with strong flavours, such as blue cheeses, grilled scallops and a fruit sauce, chicken satays with a peach dipping sauce, or with fruit based desserts or creme brulee.

Tasting Note

Inniskillin Vidal Sparkling Icewine: A beautiful golden yellow colour with streams of tiny bubbles rising to the top of the glass. Pronounced aromas of ripe yellow stone fruit (apricot, nectarine, peach), fresh pineapple, honey, and a touch of cinnamon. A luxurious and creamy texture with enough acidity and effervescence to cut through the sweetness. A very long length. Available at the LCBO for $69.95/375 ml.

It’s All About Icewine!

Sensational Sparkling Wine from Ontario

Bachelder’s Trio of 2009 Chardonnays

February 25, 2012 By Sarah Goddard in Burgundy, General Wine Knowledge, Wines of Ontario Tags: Burgundy, cool climate Chardonnay, Niagara Peninsula, Oregon, Thomas Bachelder Leave a comment

Thomas Bachelder, former winemaker of Le Clos Jordanne in Ontario’s Niagara Peninsula, has released a trio of Chardonnays from 3 different wine regions around the world – Burgundy, Oregon, and Niagara. Why were these areas chosen? Well, Niagara and Oregon have cooler climates similar to Burgundy, Chardonnay’s ancestral homeland, and since Bachelder wanted to showcase cool climate Chardonnay at its finest, these were logical choices.

Thomas has lived and worked in all three of these regions at some point in his winemaking career. He does not own vineyards or wineries in these regions; he rents space in other wineries to craft these regional wines. Please click here to see Konrad Ejbich’s interview with Thomas Bachelder.

An Education in Terroir

This project is a true education in terroir. Although there is no direct English translation for this French term, “terroir” can be thought of, very simply, as the whole natural environment of a vineyard site. It refers to the soil, topography, climate, and even grape varieties and viticultural practices. The various types and combinations of each of these factors is unique to each site and is believed to contribute to the flavours, aromas, and style of the wine. The terroir of a particular place cannot be replicated elsewhere.

Winemaking

Bachelder made each wine exactly the same way in order to illustrate the unique terroir of each region – the only thing different is the ground the grapes were grown in. The grapes are not from one specific vineyard, but were sourced from a number of good vineyards in each region, organic wherever possible. Wild yeasts were used for fermentation and then the wines were aged for 16 months in older oak barrels. The oak is subtle and integrated and does not overpower the natural aromas and flavours of the Chardonnay grape.

All three wines were released at Vintages at the LCBO on Saturday, February 18, but the Oregon wine was pulled off the shelves temporarily. Read “Tartrates in Wine – Bachelder Oregon Chardonnay” to find out why. I didn’t open the wines until I was able to open all three of them together and could taste them side by side.

Bachelder Bourgogne Chardonnay 2009: A bit tight with delicate aromas of lemon/lime citrus, yellow apple, white blossoms, wet stone, and a chalky, steely character. The rather austere minerality follows through onto the palate where there is a zippy acidity and a long length. This is the most austere and flinty of the three Chardonnays (definitely Old World in style), but no less delicious. I think this is my favourite of the three. A great food wine.

Bachelder Oregon Chardonnay 2009: Sweet, ripe fruit aromas of pineapple, peach, and citrus, with vanilla, minerals, and a very slight nutty note. Rich and creamy on the palate with notes of sweet vanilla, caramel, and ripe yellow fruit, and a long length. A style for those who like a rounder, creamier texture in their white wines. This is certainly more of a New World style, but it still retains the tension typical of cool climate Chardonnay, with a slight tartness on the finish. While it’s very different from the Bourgogne Chardonnay, it’s without question a very pleasurable wine.

Bachelder Niagara Chardonnay 2009: Stylistically, this Chardonnay lies somewhere between the Burgundy and Oregon examples. It has the both the acidity and minerality of the Chardonnay from Burgundy, as well as some of the fruit flavours of the wine from Oregon. This wine is full of citrus, tree fruit, wet stone, and spice aromas. I also found a touch of smokiness – not sure if that’s the limestone soils the grapes grow in or the judicious use of oak. This wine has a firm structure and a long length. Very delicious.

All three of these wines are worth the $34.95 price tag at the LCBO. If you can splurge a bit or have some wine-loving friends coming over, then I recommend you buy all three and taste them together to really get a feel for the unique terroir of each region.

Wednesday’s WoW! Hacienda Araucano Reserva 2009 Syrah

February 22, 2012 By Sarah Goddard in Wednesday's WoW (Wine of the Week), Wines of Chile Tags: Chile, Colchagua Valley, Francois Lurton, Hacienda Araucano Reserva Syrah 2009, Syrah Leave a comment

This week’s WoW, Hacienda Araucano Reserva 2009 Syrah, is from the Lolol Valley located in Chile’s Colchagua Valley, and is made by Bordeaux-based flying winemaker Francois Lurton. The amazingly low price tag of only $14.95 definitely makes this a great value wine.

Francois Lurton

Francois Lurton is a member of one of Bordeaux’s most famous wine families. His father, Andre, was also in the wine business, reviving many estates in the Pessac-Leognan area of Bordeaux and making wine in Entre Deux Mers, so it seems that wine is in his blood. In 1988, Francois and his brother, Jacques, teamed up to become ‘flying winemakers’ and began making wine not only in Bordeaux, but around the world. They were pioneers in Argentina’s Uco Valley and were soon making wine in Italy, Chile, and Spain, to name a few countries. Jacques eventually wanted a change, so in 2007 the pair agreed to go their separate ways and Francois acquired Jacques share of the business.

Hacienda Araucano

In 2000, 200 hectares of land in Lolol Valley, now a sub-appellation of Colchagua Valley, was purchased by Francois and Jacques Lurton. At the time, this land was not used for grape growing, but now the estate has 36 hectares planted with grapes. The Lolol Valley is a cool climate area due to its proximity to the Ocean. Cool morning mists and fog help to retain the acidity and structure of the wine. There is no phylloxera here which enables the vines to be planted on their own rootstocks. Biodynamic practices have been used in the vineyard for a few years, and they hope to be certified organic sometime in 2012 with Biodynamic certification to follow.

Tasting Notes

Hacienda Araucano Reserva Syrah 2009 is a deep ruby colour with intense aromas of blackberry, black cherry, mocha, spice, licorice, and leather. It’s medium to full-bodied with good acidity and grippy tannins. It exhibits typical Syrah flavours of peppery spice, dark fruit (plum, blackberry), and chocolate, with quite a long finish for a wine in this price range. Decant for about half an hour before serving to let the aromas and flavours open up. Serve with braised lamb shank and mashed potatoes. This wine was just released in Vintages at the LCBO this past weekend, but at this price it probably won’t last long.

Tartrates in Wine – Bachelder Oregon Chardonnay

February 19, 2012 By Sarah Goddard in General Wine Knowledge Tags: Bachelder Chardonnay, potassium bitartrate, tartrates, wine diamonds 3 Comments

Yesterday, I went into my local LCBO eager to purchase the trio of newly released Bachelder Chardonnays – one from Niagara, one from Burgundy, and one from Oregon. Thomas Bachelder is the former winemaker for Le Clos Jordanne in Ontario and I was really looking forward to trying the wines from his new venture. (For more information, read “Thomas Bachelder’s Dream Trilogy of Chardonnays: Niagara, Burgundy, Oregon” at Wines in Niagara.) I found the Bourgogne and Niagara wines easily, but when I couldn’t locate the Chardonnay from Oregon, I asked a product consultant. What did she tell me? – that the Bachelder Chardonnay from Oregon had been recalled because of tartrates. I had to give my head a shake to make sure I understood properly.

This whole ordeal is unfortunate for so many reasons. One is that a probably perfectly good wine has been pulled off LCBO shelves for nothing. Tartrates are completely natural in wine, are completely harmless, and their presence does not mean that the wine is faulty. The only problem with tartrates is their appearance and mouthfeel. To unknowing consumers, they may be mistaken for shards of glass. Another reason this situation is unfortunate is much more selfish – I really wanted to try this wine made by a quality conscious and well-respected winemaker.

What are Tartrates?

All wine contains acids: malic acid and tartaric acid are the dominant ones. Malic acid can be converted into the softer lactic acid during Malolactic Fermentation, but tartaric acid remains in the wine, where it is responsible for retaining a wine’s appropriate pH and helping to reduce spoilage. In cold temperatures, the tartaric acid will combine with potassium, which is also naturally found in wine, and form a solid called postassium bitartrate. Potassium bitartrate looks like little crystals, giving them their nickname, wine diamonds. They may appear as a powdery white substance at the bottom of the wine bottle or your wine glass, or if the crystals link together and grow, they can look like crystallized sugar or shards of glass. The crystals can also stick to the bottom of the cork as in the above photograph. Potassium bitartrate is the same thing as Cream of Tartar which is used in cooking.

Tartrates can be found in both red and white wine, but the formation of wine diamonds is less common in reds wines, as their level of tartaric acid is lower, and more tends to fall out naturally in the aging process. A process called ‘cold stabilization‘ can be used to remove tartrates from wine before it is bottled, and many producers do use this technique for purely aesthetic reasons. However, cold stabilization may effect the wine’s quality. The natural acid content in the wine may be reduced to a point where citric acid needs to be added to adjust acidity levels, and there is the risk of unwanted oxygen being added to the wine during the process (Goode, J., and Harrop, S., Authentic Wine: Toward Natural and Sustainable Winemaking, 2011). In fact, many believe that higher quality wines should not undergo unnecessary processes, such as fining, filtering and cold stabilization, in order to preserve the wine’s subtle character.

So, if you discover a wine that has wine diamonds, be happy that the wine has not been over-processed. Just be careful when pouring the wine so that the crystals remain at the bottom of the bottle and not in your glass. You can also decant the wine just as you would to remove sediment, even if it’s a white wine. If you do happen to ingest some of these crystals, fear not…they are completely harmless.

NOTE: Today, Wednesday February 22, 2012, 4 days after the wine was pulled from the shelves, I was finally able to purchase the Bachelder Oregon Chardonnay. I was under the impression that there was to be a notice attached to it explaining tartrates, but I saw no notice at all. I can see tartrates in both bottles I bought, but I know that it’s nothing to worry about. Please stay tuned for my tasting notes on the 3 Bachelder Chardonnays.

A Trio of Great Value, Easy Drinking Ontario Red Blends

February 12, 2012 By Sarah Goddard in Wines of Ontario Tags: Chateau des Charmes, Henry of Pelham, Kacaba Vineyards, Ontario Wine Reviews, Ontario wines Leave a comment

I love blends. Some of my favourite wines are blends… Bordeaux, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Cotes du Rhone, among others. Not too long ago, single varietal wines were all the rage, but now the trend is for blends. Blends are wines made from 2 or more grape varieties. Many prominent Ontario wine producers are taking advantage of this trend and coming out with a number of blends in all price points to satisfy the needs of thirsty wine lovers. At the pricier end of the scale, there are wines such as Stratus Red and White – delicious, but be prepared to part with a few bucks. There are also many blends that are fruity, approachable, easy drinking, and won’t break the bank. I recently became curious about some of these wines as I wandered around the shelves of the LCBO’s General List VQA wines. I saw a number of new and unfamiliar labels and noticed that many were made by well-established Ontario producers – the Speck brothers of Henry of Pelham, Kacaba Vineyards, Vincor, Chateau des Charmes, Peninsula Ridge, etc, so I decided to buy a few and give them a try. All the wines I chose were under $14.

Now, these are not serious wines to ponder and reflect on, but they are tasty, and they’re ready to drink now. Have a few bottles of these wines on hand for those casual occasions when friends drop by, or you just feel like a glass of red with dinner. They’ll also be great in the warmer months when we start to fire up the barbie – they’re perfect for all kinds of grilled meats.

Here are My 3 Favourites:

Red House Wine Company 2009 Cabernet Shiraz

A couple of weeks ago I wrote about Family Tree Red 2009 – by Henry of Pelham and declared it a Wednesday’s WoW, well the same producers have come out with another easy drinking red called Red House Wine Company Cabernet Shiraz ($12.95). This wine has smokey mocha, spicy cherry and blackberry notes with a round texture and velvetty tannins. There is a pleasant lingering finish of black pepper spice and smokey fruit. This wine is meant for current consumption, but will keep another couple of years. Pair with bbq’d ribs.

Generation Seven 2009 Red

Generation Seven 2009 Red is from the Bosc family of Chateau des Charmes and was created to honour the seven generations of the family who have been born into the winemaking industry. Currently the fifth and sixth generations are at the helm, and they hope that one day the seventh generation will take over the business. This wine is an unusual blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Merlot, and a hint of Gamay. This wine is full of aromas of crushed wild berry aromas, sweet vanilla, and baking spice. There is enough barrel aging to add some soft oak notes. Soft and round on the palate with a good length. Meant for current consumption. Pair with pasta with a meaty tomato sauce. ($13.95)

Kacaba Vineyards Gypsy Red 2009

Brought to you by Kacaba Vineyards, the 2009 Gypsy Red 2009 is a blend of equal proportions of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon and was aged for 12 months in French and American oak. Loads of berry aromas with a pretty floral note, cedar, dried leaves, and spicy oak. Medium to full-bodied with slightly gritty tannins, dried herbs, cherry, and a smokey, spicy fruit finish. Meant for current consumption but will keep a couple of years. Pair with beef burgers or pot roast. ($11.95)

Wednesday’s WoW! De Chanceny Cremant de Loire Rose Brut

February 8, 2012 By Sarah Goddard in Wednesday's WoW (Wine of the Week), Wines of France Tags: Champagne, Cremant, Cremant de Loire, sparkling wine, traditional method, Valentines Day Leave a comment

This pretty pink bubbly, De Chanceny Crémant de Loire Rosé Brut, is the perfect wine to add a colourful sparkle to your Valentine’s Day celebrations – and that special someone never needs to know that it’s only $17.30 at the LCBO!

Crémant

The word “crémant” is used on bottles of bubbly wine from France that are made outside the designated Champagne area, but that employ the same methods as those used in Champagne to make their wines sparkle. Several sparkling wine appellations in France were given the use of this word in the 1980s with an agreement that they would no longer use the term “méthode champenoise” on their labels. “Méthode champenoise” has now been replaced with the term “méthode traditionnelle,” or “traditional method.” For more information about the “traditional method”, please read Fact #2 in the article 10 Fun Facts About Champagne Bubbles.

“Crémant” is used as a prefix and the regional name in which the sparkling wine is produced follows. For example, “Crémant de Loire” and “Crémant de Bourgogne”. These bubblies are made using the grape varieties approved for that particular region. Often, these wines provide a delicious and much more affordable option to the much more expensive wines from Champagne.

Tasting Note

This light pink wine is made primarily from Cabernet Franc and has delicate aromas of raspberry, cranberry, red plum, pink grapefruit, and dried herbs, with a slight autolytic yeasty character. Light and refreshing on the palate, with red berry, mineral, herbs, and biscuit flavours, a soft, gentle texture, and a very pleasant, lingering finish. Begin your romantic Valentine’s meal pairing this wine with seafood appetizers, such as chilled shrimp, salmon or crab cakes, or even sushi (as an appetizer or a main course).

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