Tag Archives: Chardonnay

G. Marquis – The Silver Line

June 5, 2012 By in Ontario Wineries, Wine Reviews, Wines of Ontario Tags: , , , , , Leave a comment

G. Marquis is a new brand from Ontario’s Magnotta winery.  The brand consists of two tiers – the Red Line and the Silver Line.  Although I haven’t had the opportunity to try any, the website describes the Red Line as 100% VQA wines that are soft, fruit-forward, unoaked, and easy-drinking.  The Silver Line is the top tier and is made with hand-harvested grapes from the Stone Road Vineyard located in the Niagara-on-the-Lake appellation.  I recently sampled a few wines from the Silver Line – 2008 Chardonnay, 2011 Pinot Noir, and 2009 Vidal Icewine – and I was impressed.  These are well-made, tasty wines at very reasonable prices.

G. Marquis Silver Line Chardonnay 2008G. Marquis Silver Line Chardonnay 2008 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake:  Aged for 6 months in French-American hybrid oak casks with a subsequent 16 months in stainless steel.  12.3% abv.  Good complexity on the nose for this price range.  Aromas include creamy vanilla, golden apples, tangerine, crisp lemon, some mineral notes, and a touch of butter.  It’s well-balanced with medium weight, cleansing acidity, and flavours of vanilla yogurt, butter, and yellow tree fruit.  The oak influence is light and well-integrated.  Medium length. There are still a few bottles available in LCBO’s Vintages. Good value at $16.95.

 

G. Marquis Silver Line Pinot Noir 2011G. Marquis Silver Line Pinot Noir 2011 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake: 6 months barrel aging in new French and Hungarian oak.  13% abv.  A vibrant medium ruby colour, this wine shows aromas of cherry, red currant, raspberry, dried bay leaf, and a hint of smoky oak.  On the palate, it’s elegant and fresh, with medium body, bright acidity, and fine tannins.  The oak influence is there, but it is integrated and doesn’t overpower the Pinot Noir’s natural character.  This 2011 vintage will be released as a Vintages Essentials at the LCBO sometime in late summer or early autumn, but right now there are still some bottles of the 2010 vintage available at Vintages.  Again, good value. I’ve had much more expensive Ontario Pinot Noirs that I have not liked as much as this.  $19.95

G. Marquis Silver Line Vidal Icewine 2009G. Marquis Silver Line Vidal Icewine 2009 VQA Niagara Peninsula:  Aged for 6 to 8 months in stainless steel prior to bottling.  9.9% abv. This wine is a beautiful golden colour with intense aromas of sweet apricot, dried mango and pineapple, and sultana raisins.  It’s luxurious and rich on the palate showing honeyed apricot, citrus, and tropical fruit notes.  The high sugar level (204 g/L) is balanced by the almost searing acidity, resulting in a quite refreshing finish.  Serve very chilled.  Some bottles are still available at LCBO Vintages for $27.95/200 ml.

(All three wines were received as samples.)

Ontario Chardonnay Musqué

May 9, 2012 By in Wines of Ontario Tags: , , , , , 2 Comments

Photo by Basheer Tome @ flickr.com‘Chardonnay Musqué‘ is a name that’s appearing more and more on Ontario wine labels – currently there are at least 3 or 4 available at my nearest Vintages store.   “What exactly is Chardonnay Musqué?”, you may be asking.  Well, it’s actually a special clone of Chardonnay.  The term “musqué” can be applied to certain varieties or clones of grapes that means both “musky” and “Muscat-like” and indicates a perfumed or highly aromatic grape.

There are over 40 different clones of Chardonnay, but only two of these can be called “Musqué” due to their aromatic qualities – Clone 77 and Clone 809.  They are generally unoaked in order to preserve the fresh and fragrant aromas natural to the grape.  Several Ontario vineyards are now planted with musqué clones and the grapes may be used as either part of a blend or bottled on their own.  Generally, these wines are best when consumed relatively young.  The aromas of Chardonnay Musqué are reminiscent of Viognier or even Torrontes, and it can be made in a range of styles from dry to a little sweet to quite sweet, sometimes even with a slight spritz.  Enjoy a chilled glass of Chardonnay Musqué on a warm spring or summer day, either on its own or pair it with mild curries, sushi, salads, grilled salmon, and seafood.

Several Ontario wineries are using one or both Chardonnay Musqué clones in their wines.  13th Street’s delicious White Palette uses Chardonnay Musqué as part of the blend, while other producers, such as Chateau des Charmes, Cave Spring Cellars, Vineland Estates, Malivoire, Ravine Vineyard, and Fielding Estates, to name a few, prefer to bottle the clone on its own.

A few Ontario Chardonnay Musqués:

Chateau des Charmes Chardonnay Musque 2010Chateau des Charmes 2010 Chardonnay Musqué:  Paul Bosc, founder of Chateau des Charmes, chose the particularly fragrant and interesting Clone 809 for his Chardonnay Musqué.  The first 2 rows were planted at Chateau des Charmes in 1993, another 2 rows in 1995, and finally a whole block was planted with Clone 809 in 1999.  Chateau des Charmes first bottled the clone on its own in very small quantities in 2002.  Today, only 500 cases are bottled by the winery annually.  The 2010 Chardonnay Musqué has fragrant aromas of honeysuckle, cherry blossoms, grapefruit, and green apple.  Dry with crisp citrus, mineral, and spicy notes on the palate with refreshing acidity and a lingering finish. ($16.95)  *2012 Ontario Wine Awards Gold Medal Winner in the Unoaked Chardonnay category.*

Cave Spring Cellars 2009 Chardonnay MusqueCave Spring Cellars 2009 Chardonnay Musqué:  This wine is made from 100% Chardonnay Musqué Clone 77, first planted in Cave Spring‘s vineyards in 1984.  The first vintage bottled was 1988.  The 2009 vintage shows pronounced aromas of orange blossom, melon, honey, grapefruit, and ripe apple.  This is a dry wine with zesty acidity and flavours of lemon and grapefruit, peach, and a hint of spice with a lively and refreshing finish. ($15.95)

Vineland Estates 2010 Chardonnay MusqueVineland Estates 2010 Chardonnay Musqué: Showing floral and ripe tropical fruit aromas, Vineland Estates 2010 Chardonnay Musqué is very reminiscent of Viognier.  Loads of lemon and grapefruit zest with soft floral notes, peach and nectarine.  Off-dry on the palate, the residual sugar is beautifully balanceed by the ample acidity.  Exotic fruit flavours, citrus, and minerals burst on the palate with a pleasantly lingering finish.($17.95)

Malivoire 2010 Musque SpritzMalivoire 2010 Musqué Spritz: Made from Clone 809 planted in Malivoire‘s Estate Vineyard in 1999.  This wine is Ontario’s version of Italy’s Moscato d’Asti.  Sweet melon, grape, peach, and floral aromas dominate the nose.  A slight spritz balances the generous dose of residual sugar.  Only 9% alcohol.  Can be paired with light curries and other slightly spicy dishes, but also has enough sweetness to pair with some fruit-based desserts. ($19.95)

Gosset Champagne is Grand Champagne

October 28, 2011 By in Champagne, Wines of France Tags: , , , Leave a comment

Champagne GossetI love Champagne, and since today is the  Second Annual Champagne Day (really, it is!), I thought it would be appropriate to write a blog post in honour of Champagne, which in my opinion, is one of the world’s greatest inventions. And, yesterday at Halpern’s biennial Grand Cru event, I was able to try 3 astonishingly good Champagnes from Gosset.

Gosset is the oldest producer of wine in Champagne, founded in 1584 by Pierre Gosset who made mostly still red wine from Pinot Noir – they didn’t begin making sparkling wine until 2 centuries later.  The house was purchased in 1993 by the Cointreau family after Albert Gosset passed away, but the hands-on approach that was started by the Gosset family has been retained by the new owners.

Gosset produces over one million bottles a year.  In order to preserve acidity and help keep the wines fresh for much longer, malolactic fermentation is avoided.  The wines are made almost entirely of hand-harvested Premier Cru and Grand Cru grapes, and only the first pressings of the grapes are used.  All Gosset Champagnes are riddled by hand.  In addition to the 3 wines written about below, Gosset also makes an entry level Excellence Brut (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier), the Grand Reserve Brut (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier), and the Celebris portfolio which includes a Blanc de Blancs, Rosé 2003, and Vintage 1998.

The three wines being poured at Grand Cru were Grand Blanc de Blancs NV, Grand Millésime 2000, and Grand Rosé Brut NV.  All three were stunning.  Unfortunately none of these wines are currently available at the LCBO or Vintages, but you can order them through Halpern Wine Enterprises.

Tasting Notes:

Grand Blanc de Blancs NV:  This brand new wine in Gosset’s portfolio is being released for the first time this fall.  Made with the finest grapes from 15 villages, this wine was aged 5 years on the lees.  It’s a blend of wines from 2003, 2004, and 2005, and is 100% Chardonnay.  This wine is a medium golden yellow colour with aromas of yellow fruit, lemon citrus, white flowers, mineral, and autolytic notes of bread and yeast.  A very generous mousse and creamy mouthfeel with vibrant acidity and a long finish. (Approx. $88)

Grand Millésime 2000:  A blend of 57% Chardonnay and 43% Pinot Noir, and aged on the lees for 10 years.  It was disgorged in April 2011.  A deeper golden yellow than the Blanc de Blancs with pronounced and complex aromas of roasted hazelnut, bruised apple, baking spice, honeyed stone fruit, and buttered brioche.  Round and full-bodied with a luxurious mouthfeel,  lively acidity and a persistent finish. (Approx. $94)

Grand Rosé Brut:  Made from 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir including 7% still red Pinot Noir added.  A pretty onion skin colour with aromas of crisp red berries, pink grapefruit, freshly cut pumpkin, gingerbread, nutmeg, spring blossoms, and minerals.  Full and creamy on the palate with a lively mousse and a lovely lingering finish.  (Approx. $85)

Le Clos Jordanne 2009 Vintage Wine Tasting

October 7, 2011 By in Ontario Wineries, Wine Reviews, Wines of Ontario Tags: , , , , , , 1 Comment

Le Clos Jordanne FermentersYes, Ontario makes some excellent premium wines, both red and white, and Le Clos Jordanne‘s Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs are definitely among the top of the heap. Last week, I attended the launch party of the 2009 Le Clos Jordanne wines, held at the Brooks Brothers clothing store in the Royal Bank Plaza in Toronto.  I have to say that it’s the first wine tasting I’ve ever been to in a clothing store, but it seemed to work out.

The Le Clos Jordanne wines were, as usual, of high quality.  In fact, Del Rollo (of Vincor) who welcomed everyone to the wine tasting, proudly proclaimed that 2009 is one of the best vintages they’ve ever done.

Le Clos Jordanne Winemaker Sebastien Jacquey said that 2009 had “ideal conditions for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  It was cooler, but sunny and dry.”  He stated that the fruit was clean and healthy, and they were able to use wild yeasts and long maceration times.

However, the wines are still very young, and most of them need more time in the bottle to integrate and mellow a bit more.  To read my review of the Le Clos Jordanne 2007 Vintage, please click here.

The 2009 Vintage in Ontario

According the VQA Ontario Vintages Report, the 2009 vintage had some difficulties.  April was wet.  May was drier but cool, giving a slow but steady start to flowering.  June had normal temperatures and precipitation, but in July the weather turned cool and wet, with temperatures about 2 to 3°C cooler than normal.  August started out cool, but by the third week, much needed warmth and sunshine returned.  At this point it looked like it would be a late harvest.  September really pushed along ripening with continued warm, dry, and sunny conditions.  In the end the harvest was only a few days later than normal. The vintage was a bit challenging for longer-ripening reds, such as Merlot and the Cabernets, but it was excellent for Pinot Noir and Gamay.

The Le Clos Jordanne grapes were harvested in the beginning to mid-October in 2009 at around 22° Brix.  Sorting was minimal due to the excellent health of the fruit.

The Vineyards

Le Clos Jordanne has 4 vineyards:  Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard, La Petite Colline, Claystone Terrace, and Talon Ridge.  The vineyards are all farmed sustainably with biodynamic practices being used, such as spraying with herbal preparations.  No pesticides or herbicides are used in any of the vineyards.  Each vineyard is treated differently according to its specific terroir needs, and each vine is cared for by hand.  The vines are trained in a single guyot system and usually leaf pulling is done at the beginning of veraison on the eastern side of the vine.  In 2009, leaf pulling was done on both the east and west sides of the vine to prevent disease and to ensure grape ripening in the cooler weather.  After veraison, the vines are netted to prevent the birds from devouring the grapes before they are harvested.  All wines are VQA and are labelled with the Twenty Mile Bench sub-appellation of the Niagara Peninsula, except the wines from Talon Ridge which are designated as Vinemount Ridge.

Le Clos Jordanne wine barrelsWinemaking and Ageing

Chardonnay:  The winemaking and ageing of the Chardonnays remained pretty constant among all wines.  Fermentation took place in barrel using wild yeasts.  Due to the high acidity of the Chardonnay, the malolactic fermentation struggled a bit with some wines only completing about 80% MLF.  The wines were aged for 13 months in 15 to 20% new French oak barrels, with continual lees stirring throughout this time.

Pinot Noir:  The grapes were clean and ripe and underwent 5 days of cold soak prior to fermentation with wild yeasts.  Maceration lasted for approximately 32 days, and then the wine was transferred to barrel where it underwent natural malolactic fermentation.  All the Pinot Noirs were aged on the lees for 18 months in 35% new French oak barrels.

Wine Tasting Notes:

Village Reserve:

The Village Reserve Pinot Noir is a blend of grapes from all four vineyards and is sourced from sections of the vineyards not reserved for the single vineyard wines.  The Village Reserve Chardonnay is a blend of Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard, Claystone Terrace, and Talon Ridge.  No Chardonnay is grown on La Petite Vineyard due to its small size.  The Village Reserve wines are meant to express the terroir of the town of Jordan in the Niagara Peninsula appellation.

Village Reserve Chardonnay 2009: A bright, pale lemon colour with aromas of white flowers, honey, vanilla, smoke, nectarine, and lemon/lime citrus.  It’s crisp and clean with a minerally yet creamy finish and a good length.  $30

Village Reserve Pinot Noir 2009:  Medium ruby-coloured with black and red cherry, black currant, earth, black pepper, and chocolate on the nose.  On the palate, this wine reveals a firm structure, with flavours of sour cherry, red currant, and toasty oak.  Could use at least 6 months in bottle and will drink well for at least 3 years.  $30

Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard

Wines from this vineyard are considered to be among the best in Le Clos Jordanne’s portfolio.  It’s located on a natural plateau near the slope of the escarpment on light limestone soils with rich sediments.

Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard Chardonnay 2009:  This wine shows an abundance of fruit, including melon, peach, apricot, and lemon/lime, along with aromas of white flowers and cream.  Very creamy and supple on the palate with a very good length.  $40.

Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard Pinot Noir 2009:  Aromas of mixed red berries: cranberries, cherries, strawberries; violets, mineral, and toasty oak.  Soft, silky, and juicy on the palate with a long finish.  A good choice to serve during the holidays this year but will also keep for 3 to 5 years.  $45.

Talon Ridge

Talon Ridge is the largest of the 4 vineyards at 27.14 ha (69.21 acres) and differs from the other vineyards in the estate as it is located at the top of the escarpment rather than at its base.  It has stonier soils and its higher altitude means that it has cooler temperatures, generally resulting in lighter, fruitier wines.

Talon Ridge Chardonnay 2009:  Quite intense aromas of vanilla, coconut, yellow apple, pear, mineral, and honey.  Zippy acidity, chalky stone, and yellow fruit dominate the palate.  The oak is well-integrated and the wine has a pleasant creamy finish.  $37

Talon Ridge Pinot Noir 2009:  This wine shows aromas of dark cherry, spicy black pepper, plum, and dried herbs.  On the palate, the tannins are somewhat astringent and might benefit from at least a year in the bottle.  $40.

Claystone Terrace

As its name suggests, the soil has heavy, dark, moisture retaining, clay soils which results in robust, well-structured wines.  The vineyard is 9.91 ha (24.48 acres).  Personally, the 2009 Claystone Terrace wines, both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, were my favourite of the tasting.

Claystone Terrace Chardonnay 2009:  Complex aromas of yellow stone fruit (nectarine, apricot, peach), lemon/lime citrus, yellow apple, creamy vanilla, mineral, and a touch of butterscotch.  Rich and juicy on the palate with lively acidity, ripe fruit, well-integrated oak flavours, and a long creamy finish.  Very delicious.  Drinking well now but will also benefit from a couple of years in the cellar.  $40

Claystone Terrace Pinot Noir 2009:  A ruby red colour with pronounced aromas of both red and dark fruit, such as red plum and blackberries, along with dark chocolate, earth, and spice.  Silky and soft on the palate with rich fruit, ripe tannins, fresh acidity, and a long length.  A beautiful and elegant wine, which will benefit from 3 to 5 years of ageing.  $40

La Petite Colline

This is the smallest vineyard at only 3.25 ha (8.3 acres).  It has very sandy soils which means it has better drainage and warmer temperatures which reflects in the wines.  Only Pinot Noir is planted in this vineyard due to its very small size.

La Petite Colline Pinot Noir 2009:  This is a very pretty wine with aromas of red currant, raspberry, cherry, earth, and a touch of spice.  Refreshing acidity, tart sour cherry, and mineral are evident on the palate.  The tannins are soft and ripe.  A very nice Pinot Noir.   $45

Le Grand Clos

The grapes for these wines come from the best parcels of the Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard where the soil has better drainage and more limestone than other parcels.  The grapes for this wine generally hang on the vine for a longer time, optimizing ripeness and complexity.

Le Grand Clos Chardonnay 2009:  Elegant and complex, this wine shows aromas of stony mineral, sweet vanilla, cinnamon, fresh lemon citrus, stone fruit, and white blossoms.  A silky, creamy texture and full-body, with flavours of citrus, peaches and cream, mineral, and creme brulee on the long finish.  $65

Le Grand Clos Pinot Noir 2009:  Aromas of spicy red and black berries (cherry, currant, blackberry), earth, smoky oak, and a floral note.  The tannins are ripe but need more time to integrate and soften.  Rich and velvetty.  Will benefit from at least 3 years of aging and will cellar well for 5 to 7 years.

 

Related Posts:

Le Clos Jordanne – A Tasting of the  2007 Vintage

Wine with Food – Wine for Roasted Turkey

October 5, 2011 By in Wine with Food Tags: , , , , , , , , Leave a comment

It’s hard to believe that it’s Thanksgiving already!  Yes, Canadian turkey day is just around the corner.  Many of you may already have the menu planned out for a big feast for family and friends – turkey, stuffing, gravy, and all the fixings – but, have you thought about which wine to pair with the food?  Well, fear not…turkey is actually quite wine friendly and there are many wine styles that will pair wonderfully with a roasted turkey dinner.

The rule of serving white wine with turkey is always a safe bet, but don’t turn your back on all red wines – there are some great red wine options for turkey that play the same role as a spoonful or two of cranberry sauce.  But, no matter what colour of wine you choose, it should be relatively high in acid, low in tannin, and lighter in weight, with moderate alcohol, and little to no oak.

Sparkling Wine

Sparkling wine is a great way to start off the evening, instantly putting everyone in a celebratory mood.  However, it should not be forgotten that not only is sparkling wine an excellent way to toast the holiday, but it is also very versatile with food and pairs beautifully with a number of dishes, including turkey, so don’t be afraid to pair it with the main course! Read, “Sensational Sparkling Wine from Ontario,” for more information about Ontario sparkling wine.

Chardonnay

A good Chardonnay (especially cool-climate Chardonnay) is always a crowd pleaser at my house, and who can blame us…full of ripe fruit, creamy vanilla, and cleansing citrus and minerality.  When choosing a Chardonnay for your turkey dinner, look for ones that do not have too much oak.  Ontario produces many fine Chardonnays.  Read my post, “Seriously Cool Canadian Chardonnay”, for more details.

Riesling

Riesling is another great white wine choice for Thanksgiving dinner.  I like the dry and off-dry Rieslings with roasted turkey.  The wine’s zippy acidity cuts through the richness of the meat and gravy and leaves the palate feeling refreshed.  For information on Ontario Rieslings, please read “A Riesling Experience – Part 2 – Riesling in Ontario”.

Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir is one of my all-time favourite grapes because it is so versatile with so many foods.  Its lighter tannins and aromas and flavours of red berries act in the same way a spoonfull of cranberry sauce works, adding a different layer of flavour to the dish.  My favourite Pinot Noirs come from the grape’s ancestral homeland of Burgundy, France, but Ontario, with a similar climate, also produces some great examples.

Gamay

Soft and fruity, Gamay is another great red to serve with Thanksgiving dinner.  The Gamay grape and is naturally light in tannins and body, and is bursting with fresh berry flavours. Beaujolais is made with Gamay and hails from the southern part of Burgundy in France.  Beaujolais labelled with the name of one of ten recognized villages known as Crus Beaujolais, are typically bigger and fuller than regular Beaujolais or Beaujolais-Villages, but are still good partners with roasted turkey.  The Gamay grape is also very successful in Ontario where it makes fuller, spicier versions, with the typical Gamay fruitiness.

Blends

Don’t forget about blends!  The wine you serve with Thanksgiving dinner doesn’t have to be a single varietal wine.  There are many delicious Ontario wines on the market that are blends of two, three, or more grapes varieties.  Stratus Winery is known for its premium blends – Stratus White ($44) would be a good wine for Thanksgiving.  Look for their Wildass ($19.95) label for good value blends.  Other great value blends to try are Flat Rock Cellars Twisted ($17.15) and Seriously Twisted ($23.15) whites and 13th Street White Palette ($14.95).  These wines are not only easy to drink, they are easy on the wallet too.

Leave a comment and let me know if you have any other wine ideas that you think would be a good match for Thanksgiving dinner.

Related Articles:

Ontario VQA Wines and Christmas Dinner

Great Ontario VQA Wines to Serve with Easter Lamb

Great Ontario VQA Wines to Serve with Easter Ham

Picking Grapes in Burgundy

September 29, 2011 By in Burgundy, Wines of France Tags: , , , , , , 4 Comments

After spending 4 wonderful weeks in France, with over 3 weeks spent in the stunningly beautiful Burgundy region, I finally returned home to reality last week (and to a closet full of clothes that are now too tight).  The purpose of my trip was not just to taste and enjoy the incredible wine and food native to Burgundy – which I did in great quantities (hence the clothes that are now too tight) – I was also there to sacrifice my back, neck, shoulders, and fingers in order to experience the vendange (grape harvest) first-hand.  Well, I survived, with body and liver mostly in tact.

At the beginning of the summer, when we were planning our trip, it was thought that the harvest would be one of the earliest ever.  At one point we even thought we would be picking grapes as early as August 25th!  However, the weather changed in July, becoming a touch cooler and wetter, slowing down the ripening process a bit.  As it turned out, the harvest was still about 3 weeks early in some areas, with the harvest in Beaune and to the south starting on August 29th.

I worked for Domaine de Villaines Viserny, located north-west of Dijon.  The Domaine has 12.8 ha of planted with Auxerrois, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, and Pinot Noir, and its wines have been labelled as Vin de  Pays des Coteaux de l’Auxois since 1996.  They have chosen to train the vines on the Lyre system  The Lyre training system is said to reduce the risk of freezing and maximize the grapes’ exposure to the sun, and it is very rare to see this type of trellis in Burgundy.  We were quite happy when we found out we would be picking grapes on this type of trellis as the grapes are a bit higher off the ground than with the more traditional guyot system used in most of Burgundy, saving us from having to bend down too low to cut the bunches from the vines.  Due to our more northern location, we started picking on September 5, about a week after vineyards in the south.

“Team Canada”, as we liked to call ourselves, consisted of myself, Lesley (also a certified Sommelier), Alex (an LCBO employee), Andrea, and Jen.  We were the only foreign pickers in the group and I got the sense that the locals didn’t think we would last.  They were pleasant to us, but not overly warm.  It could also have been the language barrier.  I think they gained more respect for us as we dutifully showed up for work, and tried our best every day, even though we may have been tired and suffering.  By the end of our time there, they were very warm and friendly with us.

On our first day, we picked the Chardonnay that would be used for the sparkling wine.  We started work at 8 am and picked until about 10 am or so.  Then it was time for a ‘coffee break’.  There was coffee, hot chocolate, juice, and snacks available….and wine.  Yes, wine.  At 10 am.  Twenty to thirty minutes later, we would make our way back up the hill (the vineyard was located on quite a steep slope) to pick grapes for another couple of hours.  At lunch break, there was always an aperitif before the sandwiches were served –  one day Pastis, another day Ratafia – and of course, there was wine.  Afternoon break consisted of more wine…and cold beer.  I have to say, the beer really hit the spot after having spent the day in the hot sun.  

We were full of energy on that first day, but by the end of it we were wondering if we would indeed make it through the next 2 weeks of picking.  I think we went to bed at 9:30 that night.  The next day we picked Auxerrois, a much more difficult grape to pick as the vines were quite vigorous, and we had to fight our way through walls of foliage just to get to the grapes.  9 pm was our bedtime that night.  The third day it rained.  As I stood there in the vineyard on that rainy Wednesday morning, my neck and shoulders aching, my hands cold and wet, I was ready to throw in the towel.  How was I going to make it through another 10 days of this?  When we were called down the slope for lunch, I thought I understood one of the bosses say that we were done for the day (my French is not very good).  My spirits lifted and I looked up at him and said, “à demain?”

“Lundi,” he said.

“Lundi? Vraiment?” I asked.

“Oui, Lundi.”

A wave of relief washed over ‘Team Canada’.  We had 4 days off!  We practically danced back to the car.  We spent the next 4 days travelling around Burgundy and even made a day trip up to Champagne.

When we returned to work on Monday we knew we only had a week left.  We were tired and sore, but we made it.  I think our bodies even got used to it a bit.  I have wonderful memories of the 2011 vendange in Burgundy, but would I do it again?  I think once is enough.

Great Ontario VQA Wines to Pair with Easter Ham

April 5, 2011 By in Wine with Food, Wines of Ontario Tags: , , , , , Leave a comment

With Easter just around the corner, you may be starting to plan a feast fit for a queen…or at least your family and friends. As with any special occasion, wine can play an important role. Wine not only tastes great on its own, but a carefully chosen one can also enhance the flavour of the food it’s paired with. This year, why not go local and choose a VQA wine from Ontario.  With so many styles of VQA wine available there’s definitely a great match for whatever dish you decide to serve.  This post was inspired by an article I wrote last year for Suite101.com, “Great Wines for an Easter Feast”.

Wine Pairings with Ham

The most popular Easter meal in North America usually focuses on ham as the main event.  Ham is a very versatile meat that can pair with white, rosé, and even some red wines. Ham has delicious, delicate flavours and is almost always salty. In order to balance this saltiness, it is common to add some sweetness to the dish in the form of brown sugar, honey, pineapples, or cloves. The best wines to pair with ham are light, very fruity, and, if it’s a red, low in tannins. Some excellent matches for ham are:

White:

Riesling: Riesling is generally a fruity wine with good acidity that can help cut through some of the richness of the ham.  Ontario’s cool climate and unique terroir provides growers and winemakers almost perfect conditions to make excellent Rieslings.  A few of my favourites are:

Twenty Twenty-Seven Cellars Featherstone Vineyard Riesling 2009 VQA Twenty Mile Bench ($24.95 at Vintages or online). This virtual winery is winning high accolades from wine lovers and experts alike.  Absolutely delicious!

Tawse Sketches of Niagara Riesling 2009 VQA Niagara Peninsula($17.95 at Vintages or at the winery). This is my favourite go-to Riesling for a few years now.  It’s consistently good and well-priced.

Chardonnay: A lightly oaked Chardonnay is perfect with ham served with pineapple. The light oak can match the slight smokiness of the ham and the wine’s fruit flavours will complement the pineapple. Great examples of Chardonnay can be found throughout the world, but it is becoming quite obvious to wine-lovers that Ontario also makes fabulous world-class Chardonnay.  Read my post called “Seriously Cool Canadian Chardonnay” for a longer list of amazing Ontario Chardonnays, but here are a few more:

Rosewood Estates Winery Reserve Chardonnay 2008 VQA Beamsville Bench ($25 at the winery).  Aromatic, elegant and bursting with lively acidity.

Huff Estates South Bay Vineyards Chardonnay 2007 VQA Prince Edward County ($29.95 at Vintages, at the winery, and online). This wine won ‘White Wine of the Year’ at the Ontario Wine Awards in 2010.  Not much is left at the LCBO so get it quick.

Rosé:

Rosé: Rosé wine sales are on the rise, and it’s no wonder – they can be quite tasty and refreshing and can be a great match to many dishes, including ham. Look for dry or off-dry versions.

Malivoire Ladybug Rosé 2009 VQA Niagara Peninsula ($15.95 at Vintages, at the winery, and online) A blend of mostly Cabernet Franc with some Gamay and Pinot Noir.  Delicious and refreshing with bright fruit flavours.

Southbrook Vineyards Cabernet Rosé 2009 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake ($18.95 at the winery) A blend of mostly Cabernet Franc with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. This is a certified organic and biodynamic wine that even the Martha Stewart Radio Blog recommends!

Sparkling Rosé:  For something even more special, try a sparkling rosé.

13th Street Cuvee 13 Rosé NV ($24.95 at the winery and online).  A blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay made using the traditional method.  13th Street is one of the leaders of quality sparkling wine in Ontario. Buy any of their sparkling wines and you won’t be disappointed.

Hillebrand Trius Brut Rose ($29.95 at the winery). A blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and a little Pinot Meunier, made using the traditional method.  If you’re at Hillebrand, be sure to take a tour of their incredible sparkling wine cellar.

Red:

Gamay: Gamay is best known in the wines of Beaujolais, but Ontario also produces great examples of fruit-filled Gamays.  Wines made from Gamay, also called Gamay Noir, are low in tannin and have an abundance of fruit flavours, making them tasty partners with ham.  Ontario versions tend to be fuller-bodied and have darker fruit flavours and a bit more spice than their Beaujolais counterparts.

Chateau des Charmes Gamay Droit 2008 VQA St David’s Bench ($14.95 at the LCBO, at the winery, and online)  This special clone of Gamay, called Gamay Droit, was discovered in 1982 in a Chateau des Charmes vineyard and is now considered “Canada’s first vinifera”.  The vine shoots grow in a upward (droit) position and the grapes ripen later than other Gamays.  The resulting wines are fuller-bodied with more alcohol and flavour concentration.  A delicious warm weather red wine and it goes great with ham.

13th Street Gamay Noir 2008 ($17.95 at the winery, online, and there’s a bit left at the LCBO)  Not only does this winery make stellar sparkling wine, but they also make wonderful Gamay Noirs.  This wine is full of juicy red fruit and white pepper flavours with a touch of vanilla from the 12 months of ageing in oak.

Pinot Noir: This grape can produce many different styles of wine, from very light and almost Beaujolais-like, to deep, dark and brooding. When pairing with ham look for the lighter versions with vibrant fruit flavours and a touch of spice. Pinot Noir from Ontario fits the bill perfectly and is a great pairing with ham and mustard.

Flat Rock Cellars Pinot Noir 2009 VQA Twenty Mile Bench ($19.95 at the winery, online, and the LCBO)  Medium-bodied and full of spicy red berry flavours, and at under $20 it’s a great value too.

Norman Hardie County Pinot Noir 2009 VQA Prince Edward County ($35 at the winery and online) Ripe red berry fruit, violets, and a touch of spice.  A delicious Pinot from Prince Edward County.

Chocolate Desserts:

Since chocolate easter eggs and bunnies seem to be popular at this time of year, read “Wine and Chocolate – What More Could You Ask For?” for ideas on wines to pair with your chocolate treats.

If you prefer serving lamb for Easter dinner, then look for my upcoming post recommending Ontario VQA wine with lamb.

Seriously Cool Canadian Chardonnay

February 23, 2011 By in Wines of British Columbia, Wines of Ontario Tags: , , , , 3 Comments

Last May, a specially chosen selection of Ontario Chardonnays were sent to London, England to strut their stuff for some of the most influential wine critics in the world.  The tasting turned into a resounding success when the likes of Jancis Robinson and Steven Spurrier sang high praises for our very own local Chardonnays.  Read what they had to say here.  (Please read Seriously Cool Ontario Chardonnay – Seriously World-Class Wine for background information on this event and my tasting notes from last year’s event.)

This year on March 8, the Chardonnays are off to The Big Apple, with the addition of a few from British Columbia, making this a truly Canadian event.  Fifty-four wines from 31 wineries from Ontario and British Columbia are taking part in this year’s event as members of the US media and trade get a taste for our seriously cool chardonnays.

These international tastings are the brainchild of Bill Redelmeier of Southbrook Vineyards in Niagara.  “When people around the globe think of Canadian wines, they only think of Icewine,”says Redelmeier. “Our aim is to change that perception by presenting our wines to influential wine critics in such key cities as London and New York to let the world know what a great job Canada also does with table wines, in particular Chardonnay.”(coolchardonnay.ca)

Yesterday, the Ontario Wine Society hosted a preview tasting of the wines going to New York City at the Toronto Lawn Tennis Club.  I was able to sample all the wines being presented and I have to say that every one of them was a wine for Canadians to be proud of.  Styles ranged from light and refreshing unoaked versions to rich barrel fermented and barrel aged  Chardonnays – from delicious sparkling wines to luscious icewine.  The diverse styles were chosen to show how versatile Chardonnay can be in Canada’s cool climate vineyards.  There’s definitely a style and a price for everyone.

I found the following 18 wines to be especially exciting or interesting.  For the full list of Chardonnays going to NYC please go to coolchardonnay.ca.

Sparkling Sparklers

Both sparkling wines (from Ontario) showcased at yesterday’s tasting confirmed my thoughts that Ontario makes excellent bubbly and that this style is definitely something we should focus on.

Cave Spring Cellars 2004 Blanc de Blancs CSV Estate Bottled VQA Beamsville Bench:  Spent 5 years on its lees.  The sparkling wine is bursting with apple and fresh baked bread aromas.  A sensually creamy mousse leads to flavours of yellow apple, pear, yogurt, and brioche with a very long, lingering finish.  This wine is due to be released sometime this spring.

Huff Estates Winery 2006 Peter F. Huff Blanc de Blancs: Complex aromas of apple, pear, citrus, minerals, bread, with a slightly nutty character.  A creamy mousse with flavours of wet stones, grapefruit, and fresh baked bread and a very pleasant finish.

Unoaked Chardonnay

I tend not to get too excited about this style as it can be quite neutral unless it’s from Chablis, however, these unoaked versions were characterful and delicious.

Casa-Dea Estates Winery 2009 Chardonnay: 100% stainless steel fermented and aged for several months on the lees.  Loads of mineral, grapefruit, green apple, and white peach aromas, with a touch of green grassiness.  Zesty and refreshing on the palate.

Pondview Estate Winery 2009 Unoaked Chardonnay:  This was a surprise for me as I had never heard of Pondview before.  It’s a new winery in the Four Mile Creek sub-appellation of the Niagara Peninsula, but I’m told they have been growing grapes since 1974. The 2009 vintage was the first vintage made by Pondview.  The grapes were harvested very late – into November – and the high sugar content in the grapes has created a wine with a whopping 14.3% alcohol.  The wine was left sur lie for 6 months.   Quite aromatic for an unoaked Chardonnay with aromas of grapefruit, white blossoms, minerals, apples and pears.  It’s quite well-balanced despite the high alcohol with an invigorating acidity and long length.

Barrel-Fermented and/or Barrel Aged Chardonnays

Okanagan, British Columbia

Generally ripe and round – very New World style wines.

Meyer Family Vineyards 2009 Tribute Series – Kenny McLean: Bright with fresh yellow fruit, pineapple, white peach, blossoms, and a hint of honey.  A round and luxurious mouthfeel with refreshing acidity and a lingering finish.

Quail’s Gate Winery 2006 Stewart Reserve: Smoky toast, vanilla, ginger, pineapple, citrus, baked apple and pear aromas give a wonderfully complex nose.  A very silky texture with toasty caramel on the finish.

Mission Hill Family Estate 2005 Select Lot Collection: Showing some signs of maturity with spicy baked apples and hazelnut aromas.  Round and creamy on the palate with yellow fruit and ripe pear flavours with some well-integrated oak nuances.

Niagara Peninsula

Typically ripe fruit flavours with bright acidity and a minerally character.

Rosewood Estates Winery 2008 Reserve: 14 months in oak with full malolactic fermentation.  Aromatic yet elegant aromas of ripe pineapple, vanilla yogurt, nutmeg, and white blossoms.  A creamy texture and lively acidity lead to a long toasty finish.  A more lively wine than the fuller, rounder, more buttery 2007 version, which also happens to be delicious.

Malivoire Wine Company 2008 Moira:  Both Chardonnays – the 2008 Moira and 2008 Mottiar – presented by Malivoire were excellent in my books, but for the sake of space I will concentrate on the Moira.  Spicy perfume, ripe yellow stone fruit, mineral, vanilla, and a pretty floral note on the nose.  Very concentrated fruit flavours and well-integrated oak make this a delicious and complex Chardonnay.

Lakeview Cellars 2007 Reserve: Aromas and flavours of peach, nectarine, pineapple, and creamy vanilla.  Very juicy and delicious!

Lakeview Cellars 2000 Reserve: A gold-coloured wine with baked apple, nutmeg, caramel, and a nutty character.  Butterscotch and burnt caramel on the finish.  Maturing gracefully.

Southbrook Vineyards 2009 Triomphe: Biodynamic.  Complex aromas of creamy butterscotch, vanilla, apricot, caramel apple, ginger, and mineral.  A round and luxurious texture with peach, apricot, and mineral flavours, bright acidity and a long, butterscotch finish.

Colaneri Estate Winery 2008 Paese: Another new winery in Niagara – still under construction.  A pretty perfume of citrus blossoms, fresh yellow fruit, and caramel apples.  Full and creamy on the palate with a lingering caramelly finish.

Ravine Vineyard Estate Winery 2009 Reserve:  16 months French oak, unfiltered.  Aromas of sweet vanilla, ripe pineapple, apricot, nutmeg, lightly toasted bread.  A silky texture, fresh stone fruit flavours, vanilla and beautifully integrated oak lead to a wonderfully complex finish.

Closson Chase Vineyards 2005 Beamsville Bench:  Although the winery is located in Prince Edward County, the fruit for this wine was sourced from the Beamsville Bench in the Niagara Peninsula.  Lots of creamy vanilla, pineapple, nutmeg and wet stone aromas.  Juicy fruit flavours and minerality explode on your palate with this well-structured and balanced wine.

Prince Edward County

Very crisp and minerally with judicious use of oak.

Rosehall Run 2008 Cuvee County:  aged in 500 l puncheons.  Aromas of green apple, pineapple and a stony minerality.  Very zesty and mouthwatering with pineapple and yellow fruit flavours and soft creamy caramel on the long length.

The Grange of Prince Edward County 2008 Victoria Block Fermented: Complex and elegant, this wine has aromas of yellow fruit, citrus zest, creamy vanilla, and stony minerals with a pretty floral perfume.  Flavour of yellow fruit and citrus are layered with minerals and smoky caramel with a long length.

Norman Hardie 2008 Cuvee L:  Made from a blend of 65% Niagara fruit and 35% Prince Edward County fruit.  A complex wine, full of pear, yellow apple, lemon rind, dried pineapple, and sweet vanilla aromas, and yes…with a minerally character, and a slight smokiness on the long finish.

That is just a mere taste of the assortment of delicious Chardonnays making the journey to New York City in a couple of weeks.  I wish the winemakers and winery representatives all the best as they continue to show the world that Canada makes wines worthy of international acclaim.

Norman Hardie Tasting at Barberian’s

January 22, 2011 By in Wines of Ontario Tags: , , , , , Leave a comment

Thursday night, Prince Edward County winemaker Norman Hardie shared his wares with a crowd of admiring fans at Barberian’s Steakhouse in Toronto.  Throngs of people jammed into the restaurant’s spectacular two-story wine cellar to taste the current offerings from Norman Hardie’s eponymous winery.  For a little background information on Norman Hardie, read my post called, “Norman Hardie Cuvee L Pinot Noir – A Tale of Two Regions”.

All the wines sampled were from the 2008 and 2009 vintages and it was very interesting to taste the differences between these two years.  The summer of 2008 was quite wet and required careful vineyard management to encourage grape ripening.  All the hard work put in by Norm and his team paid off, with the grapes being made into slightly lighter wines with pretty aromatics.  The summer of 2009 started out poorly with a cool, wet spring.  July and the beginning of August didn’t seem much better.  But, by the end of August, the skies had cleared and warmer weather had returned.  September was beautiful – warm and sunny – pushing the grapes to ripen, and saving the vintage.  In the end, the harvest was only a few days later than normal.  I helped pick grapes for Norm in 2009, and was very surprised to see the grapes had no rot at all and looked amazingly healthy (Read “Helping with the Harvest at Norman Hardie Winery“).  Norm had mentioned that Prince Edward County did not receive the same amount of rainfall as the rest of the province.  The 2009 Pinot Noirs tend to be a bit rounder than the 2008s.

Tasting Notes:

2009 Pinot Gris:  Not much of this tasty Pinot Gris was made – only 90 cases.  Lots of fresh fruit aromas of melon and citrus with a distinctive mineral note.  Very refreshing.  Even those of us who might not be big Pinot Gris fans will like this one.  $25

County Chardonnay 2009: Even less of this wine was made – 85 cases!  Buy it quick if you’re interested. It’s sure to sell out fast.  Lots of juicy yellow fruit and tons of minerality from the limestone soil it’s grown on.  Chablis-like acidity and a little oak make this a very tasty Chardonnay.  $35

Chardonnay 2008: This is a wonderful Chardonnay.  As I tasted it, I pictured myself back at the dining room table at La Roche d’Hys, in Burgundy, sipping one of the region’s local wines.  Great concentration of fruit and that cool-climate Chardonnay-minerality, with a little toasty caramel on the finish.  Even Jancis Robinson, liked it, giving it a 17.5/20!  $35 Incidentally, this is one of the Canadian Chardonnays to be showcased in New York City this March.  For the full list of wines, go to Tony Aspler’s website.

Cuvee “L” Chardonnay 2008: Made from a blend of 65% Niagara fruit and 35% Prince Edward County fruit.  A complex wine, full of pear, yellow apple, lemon rind, dried pineapple, sweet vanilla, and yes…with a minerally character, and a slight smokiness on the long finish.  This Norm’s other Chardonnay going to New York in March. $49

County Pinot Noir 2008: Loads of red berries and pretty floral aromas.  Crunchy cherries, cranberries, and strawberries, with a little rhubarb and mineral. This wine is almost sold out, so act fast if you want some. $35

County Pinot Noir 2009: Ripe red berry fruit, violets, and a touch of spice.  A bit fuller, with a rounder texture, and slightly more concentrated than the 2008.  Good length.  $35

Pinot Noir 2008: The grapes for this wine come from Niagara.  Aromas of ripe cherry and red fruit dominate.  This Pinot has more body and concentration than the 2008 County Pinot Noir.  $39

Pinot Noir 2009: Grapes from a vineyard located in St. David’s Bench, Niagara, were used in this wine.  Darker fruit aromas than the 2008, with some blackberry, spice, and a hint of licorice, with a pleasant cherry finish. $39

Cabernet Franc 2009: I had no idea that Norman Hardie made a Cabernet Franc until Thursday night.  Apparently he also made one in 2005.  The fruit comes from the vineyard right next to his Pinot Noir vineyard in Prince Edward County.  This wine has a lovely perfume of flower petals, spicy red fruit, and that tell-tale Cab Franc aroma of lead pencil shavings.  The tannins are ripe and well-integrated.  A very nice Cabernet Franc at the very reasonable price of $25!

All the wines sampled at the tasting are available for purchase through the winery while supplies last.  They’ll deliver anywhere in Ontario and mixed cases are allowed.

Domaine de la Motte – Chablis

June 7, 2010 By in Burgundy, Wines of France Tags: , , , , Leave a comment

My adventures in Burgundy continued as we climbed into our big red bus, and headed northwest, along the very narrow and incredibly winding roads, to the northern Burgundy region of Chablis, where we visited Domaine de la Motte.  The Chablis wine region is named after the small, sleepy village on the left bank of the River Serein. Just across the river on the slopes of a large hill, lie the 7 Grand Cru vineyards. Chablis is quite far removed from the famous Cote d’Or region of Burgundy, looking almost like a lone island off in the distance. It’s actually closer to Champagne than the rest of Burgundy.

Chablis is famous for its steely, flinty, minerally wines made from the Chardonnay grape.  There are 4 classifications of Chablis wines:  Grand Cru (7 of them), Premier Cru (17 of them), Chablis, and Petit Chablis.  For more information on Chablis, read my article “The Wines of Chablis” on Suite101.com.

Domaine de la Motte is located in the tiny village of Beine just northwest of Chablis.  It is run by the Michaut family, who were gracious enough to show us around their facility and offered us the opportunity to taste several of their wines.

Domaine de la Motte’s winemaking facility is new and pristine with big, shiny, stainless steel tanks and a floor so clean you could eat off it.  All the wines are fermented and aged in these beautiful steel tanks, with the exception of the Premier Crus which are aged in oak.  Once fermentation is complete, the wine remains in the same tank until the malolactic fermentation has run its course.  When MLF is complete the sediment is removed from the wine, refermented, and then added back to the wine to add complexity.  The wine is only racked once to prevent stress on the wine.  The finished wine is fined with Bentonite.  They admit that fining may take away flavour, but that consumers demand a completely clear wine. After fining, the wine is filtered once through a cake of ground seashells.

Domaine de la Motte owns about 60 ha of vineyards including parcels of Premier Cru vineyards, such as Vauligneau and Beauroy.  We visited both.  The Vauligneau vineyard is about 37 years old.  It was a forest until as late as the 1970s when vineyards were planted, and  was only recently promoted to Premier Cru status.  The soils are Kimmeridgian limestone which is a combination of chalky limestone and clay containing the fossils of ancient oyster shells.  In addition to making their own wines, they also sell some of their grapes to other negociants such as William Fevre and Bouchard Pere & Fils.

Beauroy Premier Cru is perhaps the flagship wine of Domaine de la Motte.  The vineyard has better explosure than the Vauligneau vineyard and the vines are about 40 years old.

The winemakers in the Chablis region and throughout Burgundy were very excited about the prospects of the 2009 vintage.  They claim it might just be the best vintage yet, especially for the white wines.  It seems the growing season had perfect conditions.  Clive Coates MW puts the vintage up there with 2005 and 1999 as the best in the last 25 years.

Tasting Notes:

Petit Chablis 2009: Lots of green apple, mineral, and flint aromas with a slight grapefruity note.   It’s light bodied with a steely minerality, zippy acidity, and a medium length.  A young, fresh, thirst-quenching wine.

Chablis 2007:  A light straw colour with a greenish hue and aromas of green apple, mineral, and gun flint.  Fuller-bodied than the Petit Chablis, it shows flavours of gun flint, chalk, and wet stone.  A nicely balanced wine with a good length.

Vieilles Vignes Chablis 2008: the grapes were grown on vines over 30 years old. An intense nose of gun flint, lime zest, and green apple.  A fuller-bodied wine again displaying concentrated lime and mineral flavours, with a long, creamy finish.  A very nice wine.

After a delicious lunch of wild boar pate with a baguette and various cheeses, we continued our tasting.  M. Michaut, himself, killed the wild boar and made the pate.

Beauroy 1er Cru 2007:  This wine was aged for 3 months in Troncais oak barrels. A beautiful nose of yellow and green apple, mineral, lime, white blossoms, and ever-so-slight vanilla.  The oak is very well integrated and gives the wine a creamy, smooth texture with flavours of vanilla, pineapple, lime and the steely minerality we all associate with a good Chablis.  A beautiful wine.  I brought a bottle home.

Pinot Noir 2008 Bourgogne: This wine is not labelled as Chablis, but as a generic Bourgogne.  Only Chardonnay can be labelled as Chablis.  Lots of red berry flavours, earth, spice, and bergamot.  Light bodied and refreshing, this wine shows flavours of red fruit and spice with a pleasant earthiness.   A nice, light, very quaffable pinot noir.

Before you ask, I don’t believe these wines are available for purchase in Ontario.  I have searched online and have not been able to find anything.  If any of you know if the wines of Domaine de la Motte can be found here, please let us know.  Unfortunately, many of the wonderful wines I tried in Burgundy cannot be found here.




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