G. Marquis – The Silver Line

G. Marquis is a new brand from Ontario’s Magnotta winery.  The brand consists of two tiers – the Red Line and the Silver Line.  Although I haven’t had the opportunity to try any, the website describes the Red Line as 100% VQA wines that are soft, fruit-forward, unoaked, and easy-drinking.  The Silver Line is the top tier and is made with hand-harvested grapes from the Stone Road Vineyard located in the Niagara-on-the-Lake appellation.  I recently sampled a few wines from the Silver Line – 2008 Chardonnay, 2011 Pinot Noir, and 2009 Vidal Icewine – and I was impressed.  These are well-made, tasty wines at very reasonable prices.

G. Marquis Silver Line Chardonnay 2008G. Marquis Silver Line Chardonnay 2008 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake:  Aged for 6 months in French-American hybrid oak casks with a subsequent 16 months in stainless steel.  12.3% abv.  Good complexity on the nose for this price range.  Aromas include creamy vanilla, golden apples, tangerine, crisp lemon, some mineral notes, and a touch of butter.  It’s well-balanced with medium weight, cleansing acidity, and flavours of vanilla yogurt, butter, and yellow tree fruit.  The oak influence is light and well-integrated.  Medium length. There are still a few bottles available in LCBO’s Vintages. Good value at $16.95.

 

G. Marquis Silver Line Pinot Noir 2011G. Marquis Silver Line Pinot Noir 2011 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake: 6 months barrel aging in new French and Hungarian oak.  13% abv.  A vibrant medium ruby colour, this wine shows aromas of cherry, red currant, raspberry, dried bay leaf, and a hint of smoky oak.  On the palate, it’s elegant and fresh, with medium body, bright acidity, and fine tannins.  The oak influence is there, but it is integrated and doesn’t overpower the Pinot Noir’s natural character.  This 2011 vintage will be released as a Vintages Essentials at the LCBO sometime in late summer or early autumn, but right now there are still some bottles of the 2010 vintage available at Vintages.  Again, good value. I’ve had much more expensive Ontario Pinot Noirs that I have not liked as much as this.  $19.95

G. Marquis Silver Line Vidal Icewine 2009G. Marquis Silver Line Vidal Icewine 2009 VQA Niagara Peninsula:  Aged for 6 to 8 months in stainless steel prior to bottling.  9.9% abv. This wine is a beautiful golden colour with intense aromas of sweet apricot, dried mango and pineapple, and sultana raisins.  It’s luxurious and rich on the palate showing honeyed apricot, citrus, and tropical fruit notes.  The high sugar level (204 g/L) is balanced by the almost searing acidity, resulting in a quite refreshing finish.  Serve very chilled.  Some bottles are still available at LCBO Vintages for $27.95/200 ml.

(All three wines were received as samples.)

Wednesday’s WoW! Bouchard Pere & Fils La Vignee Pinot Noir 2009

Bouchard Pere et Fils La Vignee Pinot Noir 2009

A Great Wine With Turkey!

This week’s WoW is for all you last minute Christmas organizers who are still looking for a good red wine to serve with your turkey dinner.  Bouchard Pere et Fils La Vignee Pinot Noir 2009 is a great choice at the great price of $16.95 at the LCBO.

This wine comes from Pinot Noir’s ancestral homeland of Burgundy, France, where some of the most incredible examples of this grape are produced.

Bouchard Pere et Fils

Founded in 1732, Bouchard Pere et Fils is now the largest domaine in the Cote d’Or.  In 1820, Bernard Bouchard purchased the royal fortress of Beaune, built by King Louis XI and King Louis XII.  Since then, Bouchard’s wines have been cellared in the bastions and ramparts of this fortress.  The domaine’s 321 acres of vineyards includes 185 acres of Premier Cru and 30 acres of Grand Cru.  In 1995, the Bouchard family passed the domaine on to a very old Champagne family, the Henriots, who have continued to run the domaine with the special attention and care the Bouchard’s did for over 26o years.

Winemaking

The grapes for this wine are grown by quality conscious growers who follow Bouchard Pere et Fils strict quality control standards.  Twenty-five percent of the wine is aged in barrels for 6 months while the remaining 75% is aged in stainless steel vats.  All maturing takes place in the cellars of the ancient Chateau de Beaune.

Tasting Notes

This wine is a pretty ruby colour and displays aromas of red berries, especially cranberry and raspberry, spice, and a hint of vanilla.  It’s medium-bodied, soft, and silky on the palate with a very good length.  A really nice red Burgundy for the price.  This wine could take the place of cranberry sauce with your turkey dinner this Christmas.

Gosset Champagne is Grand Champagne

Champagne GossetI love Champagne, and since today is the  Second Annual Champagne Day (really, it is!), I thought it would be appropriate to write a blog post in honour of Champagne, which in my opinion, is one of the world’s greatest inventions. And, yesterday at Halpern’s biennial Grand Cru event, I was able to try 3 astonishingly good Champagnes from Gosset.

Gosset is the oldest producer of wine in Champagne, founded in 1584 by Pierre Gosset who made mostly still red wine from Pinot Noir – they didn’t begin making sparkling wine until 2 centuries later.  The house was purchased in 1993 by the Cointreau family after Albert Gosset passed away, but the hands-on approach that was started by the Gosset family has been retained by the new owners.

Gosset produces over one million bottles a year.  In order to preserve acidity and help keep the wines fresh for much longer, malolactic fermentation is avoided.  The wines are made almost entirely of hand-harvested Premier Cru and Grand Cru grapes, and only the first pressings of the grapes are used.  All Gosset Champagnes are riddled by hand.  In addition to the 3 wines written about below, Gosset also makes an entry level Excellence Brut (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier), the Grand Reserve Brut (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier), and the Celebris portfolio which includes a Blanc de Blancs, Rosé 2003, and Vintage 1998.

The three wines being poured at Grand Cru were Grand Blanc de Blancs NV, Grand Millésime 2000, and Grand Rosé Brut NV.  All three were stunning.  Unfortunately none of these wines are currently available at the LCBO or Vintages, but you can order them through Halpern Wine Enterprises.

Tasting Notes:

Grand Blanc de Blancs NV:  This brand new wine in Gosset’s portfolio is being released for the first time this fall.  Made with the finest grapes from 15 villages, this wine was aged 5 years on the lees.  It’s a blend of wines from 2003, 2004, and 2005, and is 100% Chardonnay.  This wine is a medium golden yellow colour with aromas of yellow fruit, lemon citrus, white flowers, mineral, and autolytic notes of bread and yeast.  A very generous mousse and creamy mouthfeel with vibrant acidity and a long finish. (Approx. $88)

Grand Millésime 2000:  A blend of 57% Chardonnay and 43% Pinot Noir, and aged on the lees for 10 years.  It was disgorged in April 2011.  A deeper golden yellow than the Blanc de Blancs with pronounced and complex aromas of roasted hazelnut, bruised apple, baking spice, honeyed stone fruit, and buttered brioche.  Round and full-bodied with a luxurious mouthfeel,  lively acidity and a persistent finish. (Approx. $94)

Grand Rosé Brut:  Made from 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir including 7% still red Pinot Noir added.  A pretty onion skin colour with aromas of crisp red berries, pink grapefruit, freshly cut pumpkin, gingerbread, nutmeg, spring blossoms, and minerals.  Full and creamy on the palate with a lively mousse and a lovely lingering finish.  (Approx. $85)

Wine Tasting at Malivoire Winery – An Affair with Pinot Noir

Malivoire Winery EntranceI have had a passionate love affair with Pinot Noir for some time now – I’m frequently seduced by its alluring aromas and flavours and silky caress – so I was excited to learn about The Pinot Affair wine tasting taking place at a few wineries in Niagara on the weekend of October 15-16.  Unfortunately I was only able to get to about half of the wineries involved.  They were all fun, flirty affairs until…my heart was stolen…by Malivoire Winery.

Malivoire Wine Company began in 1995 when Martin Malivoire and his partner, Moira Saganski, purchased a plot of land on what is now the Beamsville Bench sub-appellation of the Niagara Peninsula wine region in Ontario. That plot of land soon became the Moira Vineyard.  A year later, they purchased more land just to the west, which is now the site of the winery.

Malivoire currently owns two vineyards, Moira and Estate, and farms two other vineyards under lease, Epp and Eastman.  All vineyards are in the Beamsville Bench sub-appellation, with the exception of the Epp Vineyard which is on the Twenty Mile Bench sub-appellation.  Malivoire also makes wine from the Mottiar Family Vineyard which was purchased by Malivoire’s own winemaker, Shiraz Mottiar, in 2003.

Malivoire only grows grape varieties that are suitable for the sand, clay, and limestone soils and the  cool-climate conditions of the region.  Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer, Gamay, and Pinot Noir are their chosen grapes.  Malivoire does not use pumps, but uses gravity to move the pre-bottled liquid from one place to another, reducing agitation and oxidation, minimizing the need for filtration, and in the end, enhancing flavour.

The Wine Tasting Event

The wine tasting was led by Shiraz (yes, that’s his real name) Mottiar himself.  It was a real treat to be able to taste Pinot Noirs from the 2010 vintage that are still in barrel.  We startedShiraz Mottiar, Malivoire's winemaker with 2 Pinots from the Estate vineyard; one was fermented in stainless steel and the other was barrel fermented.  The barrel was not toasted, so it’s just the fresh wood in contact with the wine.  The first wine was very fruit-forward with bright acidity.  Shiraz said that it will probably make up the foundation of the Alive label Pinot Noir.  The barrel fermented wine had the same red fruit, but there was a bit more spice and earthiness, and a rounder mouthfeel.  I felt this was a more complex wine.  Shiraz commented that it had great structure, but that it may need some support from other wines during the blending process.

Next we tasted two wines from the Mottiar vineyard, also from 2010.  As with the Estate Vineyard wines, one was stainless steel fermented and the other was barrel fermented.  Again the stainless steel fermented wine was a more fruit-forward wine, but there were also some distinct mineral and floral notes.  But it was the barrel fermented Mottiar vineyard Pinot Noir that really stole my heart.  It was intense and aromatic with darker fruit, more spice, and a floral perfume.  Supple, smooth and silky with a very long finish.

Shiraz then encouraged us to do a little blending of our own to see how two or three of these wines would work together.  I mixed the two Mottiar Vineyards wines together creating one delicious blend indeed!  I’m really looking forward to trying the finished wine in about a year; it’s sure to be a beauty.

We then tasted the 2009 Alive Pinot Noir, the 2009 Small Lot Pinot Noir, and the 2009 Mottiar Pinot Noir.  Tasting notes for all wines are below.

Wine Tasting Notes

Estate Vineyard 2010: Stainless steel fermented.  Still in tank.  A brilliant ruby colour with ripe red berry aromas; strawberry, raspberry, and cranberry.  Delicate but with bright acidity on the palate and a very fruity finish.

Estate Vineyard 2010: Barrel fermented.  Still in barrel.  The same red berry fruit as in the first wine, but more spicy, earthy notes and a touch of vanilla.  The tannins are more noticeable, but there’s a rounder mouthfeel and more complex flavours.  Good length.

Mottiar Vineyard 2010: Stainless steel fermented.  Still in tank.  A bright ruby colour with a purplish hue.  Mineral and floral notes combined with lots of cranberry, raspberry, and red currant aromas.  Subtle and delicate.  Very pretty.

Mottiar Vineyard 2010: Barrel fermented.  Still in barrel.  Intense and aromatic with spicy cranberry, red plum, dark raspberry, black cherry, and a floral note reminiscent of rose petals.  Fuller and rounder on the palate than the previous wines with a very long lingering finish.

Alive Pinot Noir 2009:  12% barrel fermented.  A bright ruby colour with sour cherry,  red currant, raspberry, mineral, and a touch of smoke.  Bright acidity with a good length.  Very approachable and ready to drink now. ($29.95)

Small Lot Pinot Noir 2009:  60% barrel fermented.  Darker, spicier fruit than the Alive version, with mineral, earth and violet aromas.  Ripe fruit and spice on the palate with a firm structure and a long length.  A good wine to leave in the cellar for 3 – 5 years.  It’s recommended that you decant for 1 hour if serving now.  ($34.95)

Mottiar Pinot Noir 2009:  50% barrel fermented.  Aromatic and elegant with aromas of plum, blackberry, earth, cinnamon spice, flower petals, and a minty note.  Silky tannins and a long length.  Cellar for 3 – 5 years.  It should age and evolve nicely.  Only 100 cases made so don’t delay in buying this wonderful wine.  ($39.95)

Le Clos Jordanne 2009 Vintage Wine Tasting

Le Clos Jordanne FermentersYes, Ontario makes some excellent premium wines, both red and white, and Le Clos Jordanne‘s Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs are definitely among the top of the heap. Last week, I attended the launch party of the 2009 Le Clos Jordanne wines, held at the Brooks Brothers clothing store in the Royal Bank Plaza in Toronto.  I have to say that it’s the first wine tasting I’ve ever been to in a clothing store, but it seemed to work out.

The Le Clos Jordanne wines were, as usual, of high quality.  In fact, Del Rollo (of Vincor) who welcomed everyone to the wine tasting, proudly proclaimed that 2009 is one of the best vintages they’ve ever done.

Le Clos Jordanne Winemaker Sebastien Jacquey said that 2009 had “ideal conditions for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  It was cooler, but sunny and dry.”  He stated that the fruit was clean and healthy, and they were able to use wild yeasts and long maceration times.

However, the wines are still very young, and most of them need more time in the bottle to integrate and mellow a bit more.  To read my review of the Le Clos Jordanne 2007 Vintage, please click here.

The 2009 Vintage in Ontario

According the VQA Ontario Vintages Report, the 2009 vintage had some difficulties.  April was wet.  May was drier but cool, giving a slow but steady start to flowering.  June had normal temperatures and precipitation, but in July the weather turned cool and wet, with temperatures about 2 to 3°C cooler than normal.  August started out cool, but by the third week, much needed warmth and sunshine returned.  At this point it looked like it would be a late harvest.  September really pushed along ripening with continued warm, dry, and sunny conditions.  In the end the harvest was only a few days later than normal. The vintage was a bit challenging for longer-ripening reds, such as Merlot and the Cabernets, but it was excellent for Pinot Noir and Gamay.

The Le Clos Jordanne grapes were harvested in the beginning to mid-October in 2009 at around 22° Brix.  Sorting was minimal due to the excellent health of the fruit.

The Vineyards

Le Clos Jordanne has 4 vineyards:  Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard, La Petite Colline, Claystone Terrace, and Talon Ridge.  The vineyards are all farmed sustainably with biodynamic practices being used, such as spraying with herbal preparations.  No pesticides or herbicides are used in any of the vineyards.  Each vineyard is treated differently according to its specific terroir needs, and each vine is cared for by hand.  The vines are trained in a single guyot system and usually leaf pulling is done at the beginning of veraison on the eastern side of the vine.  In 2009, leaf pulling was done on both the east and west sides of the vine to prevent disease and to ensure grape ripening in the cooler weather.  After veraison, the vines are netted to prevent the birds from devouring the grapes before they are harvested.  All wines are VQA and are labelled with the Twenty Mile Bench sub-appellation of the Niagara Peninsula, except the wines from Talon Ridge which are designated as Vinemount Ridge.

Le Clos Jordanne wine barrelsWinemaking and Ageing

Chardonnay:  The winemaking and ageing of the Chardonnays remained pretty constant among all wines.  Fermentation took place in barrel using wild yeasts.  Due to the high acidity of the Chardonnay, the malolactic fermentation struggled a bit with some wines only completing about 80% MLF.  The wines were aged for 13 months in 15 to 20% new French oak barrels, with continual lees stirring throughout this time.

Pinot Noir:  The grapes were clean and ripe and underwent 5 days of cold soak prior to fermentation with wild yeasts.  Maceration lasted for approximately 32 days, and then the wine was transferred to barrel where it underwent natural malolactic fermentation.  All the Pinot Noirs were aged on the lees for 18 months in 35% new French oak barrels.

Wine Tasting Notes:

Village Reserve:

The Village Reserve Pinot Noir is a blend of grapes from all four vineyards and is sourced from sections of the vineyards not reserved for the single vineyard wines.  The Village Reserve Chardonnay is a blend of Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard, Claystone Terrace, and Talon Ridge.  No Chardonnay is grown on La Petite Vineyard due to its small size.  The Village Reserve wines are meant to express the terroir of the town of Jordan in the Niagara Peninsula appellation.

Village Reserve Chardonnay 2009: A bright, pale lemon colour with aromas of white flowers, honey, vanilla, smoke, nectarine, and lemon/lime citrus.  It’s crisp and clean with a minerally yet creamy finish and a good length.  $30

Village Reserve Pinot Noir 2009:  Medium ruby-coloured with black and red cherry, black currant, earth, black pepper, and chocolate on the nose.  On the palate, this wine reveals a firm structure, with flavours of sour cherry, red currant, and toasty oak.  Could use at least 6 months in bottle and will drink well for at least 3 years.  $30

Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard

Wines from this vineyard are considered to be among the best in Le Clos Jordanne’s portfolio.  It’s located on a natural plateau near the slope of the escarpment on light limestone soils with rich sediments.

Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard Chardonnay 2009:  This wine shows an abundance of fruit, including melon, peach, apricot, and lemon/lime, along with aromas of white flowers and cream.  Very creamy and supple on the palate with a very good length.  $40.

Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard Pinot Noir 2009:  Aromas of mixed red berries: cranberries, cherries, strawberries; violets, mineral, and toasty oak.  Soft, silky, and juicy on the palate with a long finish.  A good choice to serve during the holidays this year but will also keep for 3 to 5 years.  $45.

Talon Ridge

Talon Ridge is the largest of the 4 vineyards at 27.14 ha (69.21 acres) and differs from the other vineyards in the estate as it is located at the top of the escarpment rather than at its base.  It has stonier soils and its higher altitude means that it has cooler temperatures, generally resulting in lighter, fruitier wines.

Talon Ridge Chardonnay 2009:  Quite intense aromas of vanilla, coconut, yellow apple, pear, mineral, and honey.  Zippy acidity, chalky stone, and yellow fruit dominate the palate.  The oak is well-integrated and the wine has a pleasant creamy finish.  $37

Talon Ridge Pinot Noir 2009:  This wine shows aromas of dark cherry, spicy black pepper, plum, and dried herbs.  On the palate, the tannins are somewhat astringent and might benefit from at least a year in the bottle.  $40.

Claystone Terrace

As its name suggests, the soil has heavy, dark, moisture retaining, clay soils which results in robust, well-structured wines.  The vineyard is 9.91 ha (24.48 acres).  Personally, the 2009 Claystone Terrace wines, both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, were my favourite of the tasting.

Claystone Terrace Chardonnay 2009:  Complex aromas of yellow stone fruit (nectarine, apricot, peach), lemon/lime citrus, yellow apple, creamy vanilla, mineral, and a touch of butterscotch.  Rich and juicy on the palate with lively acidity, ripe fruit, well-integrated oak flavours, and a long creamy finish.  Very delicious.  Drinking well now but will also benefit from a couple of years in the cellar.  $40

Claystone Terrace Pinot Noir 2009:  A ruby red colour with pronounced aromas of both red and dark fruit, such as red plum and blackberries, along with dark chocolate, earth, and spice.  Silky and soft on the palate with rich fruit, ripe tannins, fresh acidity, and a long length.  A beautiful and elegant wine, which will benefit from 3 to 5 years of ageing.  $40

La Petite Colline

This is the smallest vineyard at only 3.25 ha (8.3 acres).  It has very sandy soils which means it has better drainage and warmer temperatures which reflects in the wines.  Only Pinot Noir is planted in this vineyard due to its very small size.

La Petite Colline Pinot Noir 2009:  This is a very pretty wine with aromas of red currant, raspberry, cherry, earth, and a touch of spice.  Refreshing acidity, tart sour cherry, and mineral are evident on the palate.  The tannins are soft and ripe.  A very nice Pinot Noir.   $45

Le Grand Clos

The grapes for these wines come from the best parcels of the Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard where the soil has better drainage and more limestone than other parcels.  The grapes for this wine generally hang on the vine for a longer time, optimizing ripeness and complexity.

Le Grand Clos Chardonnay 2009:  Elegant and complex, this wine shows aromas of stony mineral, sweet vanilla, cinnamon, fresh lemon citrus, stone fruit, and white blossoms.  A silky, creamy texture and full-body, with flavours of citrus, peaches and cream, mineral, and creme brulee on the long finish.  $65

Le Grand Clos Pinot Noir 2009:  Aromas of spicy red and black berries (cherry, currant, blackberry), earth, smoky oak, and a floral note.  The tannins are ripe but need more time to integrate and soften.  Rich and velvetty.  Will benefit from at least 3 years of aging and will cellar well for 5 to 7 years.

 

Related Posts:

Le Clos Jordanne – A Tasting of the  2007 Vintage

Wine with Food – Wine for Roasted Turkey

It’s hard to believe that it’s Thanksgiving already!  Yes, Canadian turkey day is just around the corner.  Many of you may already have the menu planned out for a big feast for family and friends – turkey, stuffing, gravy, and all the fixings – but, have you thought about which wine to pair with the food?  Well, fear not…turkey is actually quite wine friendly and there are many wine styles that will pair wonderfully with a roasted turkey dinner.

The rule of serving white wine with turkey is always a safe bet, but don’t turn your back on all red wines – there are some great red wine options for turkey that play the same role as a spoonful or two of cranberry sauce.  But, no matter what colour of wine you choose, it should be relatively high in acid, low in tannin, and lighter in weight, with moderate alcohol, and little to no oak.

Sparkling Wine

Sparkling wine is a great way to start off the evening, instantly putting everyone in a celebratory mood.  However, it should not be forgotten that not only is sparkling wine an excellent way to toast the holiday, but it is also very versatile with food and pairs beautifully with a number of dishes, including turkey, so don’t be afraid to pair it with the main course! Read, “Sensational Sparkling Wine from Ontario,” for more information about Ontario sparkling wine.

Chardonnay

A good Chardonnay (especially cool-climate Chardonnay) is always a crowd pleaser at my house, and who can blame us…full of ripe fruit, creamy vanilla, and cleansing citrus and minerality.  When choosing a Chardonnay for your turkey dinner, look for ones that do not have too much oak.  Ontario produces many fine Chardonnays.  Read my post, “Seriously Cool Canadian Chardonnay”, for more details.

Riesling

Riesling is another great white wine choice for Thanksgiving dinner.  I like the dry and off-dry Rieslings with roasted turkey.  The wine’s zippy acidity cuts through the richness of the meat and gravy and leaves the palate feeling refreshed.  For information on Ontario Rieslings, please read “A Riesling Experience – Part 2 – Riesling in Ontario”.

Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir is one of my all-time favourite grapes because it is so versatile with so many foods.  Its lighter tannins and aromas and flavours of red berries act in the same way a spoonfull of cranberry sauce works, adding a different layer of flavour to the dish.  My favourite Pinot Noirs come from the grape’s ancestral homeland of Burgundy, France, but Ontario, with a similar climate, also produces some great examples.

Gamay

Soft and fruity, Gamay is another great red to serve with Thanksgiving dinner.  The Gamay grape and is naturally light in tannins and body, and is bursting with fresh berry flavours. Beaujolais is made with Gamay and hails from the southern part of Burgundy in France.  Beaujolais labelled with the name of one of ten recognized villages known as Crus Beaujolais, are typically bigger and fuller than regular Beaujolais or Beaujolais-Villages, but are still good partners with roasted turkey.  The Gamay grape is also very successful in Ontario where it makes fuller, spicier versions, with the typical Gamay fruitiness.

Blends

Don’t forget about blends!  The wine you serve with Thanksgiving dinner doesn’t have to be a single varietal wine.  There are many delicious Ontario wines on the market that are blends of two, three, or more grapes varieties.  Stratus Winery is known for its premium blends – Stratus White ($44) would be a good wine for Thanksgiving.  Look for their Wildass ($19.95) label for good value blends.  Other great value blends to try are Flat Rock Cellars Twisted ($17.15) and Seriously Twisted ($23.15) whites and 13th Street White Palette ($14.95).  These wines are not only easy to drink, they are easy on the wallet too.

Leave a comment and let me know if you have any other wine ideas that you think would be a good match for Thanksgiving dinner.

Related Articles:

Ontario VQA Wines and Christmas Dinner

Great Ontario VQA Wines to Serve with Easter Lamb

Great Ontario VQA Wines to Serve with Easter Ham

Picking Grapes in Burgundy

After spending 4 wonderful weeks in France, with over 3 weeks spent in the stunningly beautiful Burgundy region, I finally returned home to reality last week (and to a closet full of clothes that are now too tight).  The purpose of my trip was not just to taste and enjoy the incredible wine and food native to Burgundy – which I did in great quantities (hence the clothes that are now too tight) – I was also there to sacrifice my back, neck, shoulders, and fingers in order to experience the vendange (grape harvest) first-hand.  Well, I survived, with body and liver mostly in tact.

At the beginning of the summer, when we were planning our trip, it was thought that the harvest would be one of the earliest ever.  At one point we even thought we would be picking grapes as early as August 25th!  However, the weather changed in July, becoming a touch cooler and wetter, slowing down the ripening process a bit.  As it turned out, the harvest was still about 3 weeks early in some areas, with the harvest in Beaune and to the south starting on August 29th.

I worked for Domaine de Villaines Viserny, located north-west of Dijon.  The Domaine has 12.8 ha of planted with Auxerrois, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, and Pinot Noir, and its wines have been labelled as Vin de  Pays des Coteaux de l’Auxois since 1996.  They have chosen to train the vines on the Lyre system  The Lyre training system is said to reduce the risk of freezing and maximize the grapes’ exposure to the sun, and it is very rare to see this type of trellis in Burgundy.  We were quite happy when we found out we would be picking grapes on this type of trellis as the grapes are a bit higher off the ground than with the more traditional guyot system used in most of Burgundy, saving us from having to bend down too low to cut the bunches from the vines.  Due to our more northern location, we started picking on September 5, about a week after vineyards in the south.

“Team Canada”, as we liked to call ourselves, consisted of myself, Lesley (also a certified Sommelier), Alex (an LCBO employee), Andrea, and Jen.  We were the only foreign pickers in the group and I got the sense that the locals didn’t think we would last.  They were pleasant to us, but not overly warm.  It could also have been the language barrier.  I think they gained more respect for us as we dutifully showed up for work, and tried our best every day, even though we may have been tired and suffering.  By the end of our time there, they were very warm and friendly with us.

On our first day, we picked the Chardonnay that would be used for the sparkling wine.  We started work at 8 am and picked until about 10 am or so.  Then it was time for a ‘coffee break’.  There was coffee, hot chocolate, juice, and snacks available….and wine.  Yes, wine.  At 10 am.  Twenty to thirty minutes later, we would make our way back up the hill (the vineyard was located on quite a steep slope) to pick grapes for another couple of hours.  At lunch break, there was always an aperitif before the sandwiches were served –  one day Pastis, another day Ratafia – and of course, there was wine.  Afternoon break consisted of more wine…and cold beer.  I have to say, the beer really hit the spot after having spent the day in the hot sun.  

We were full of energy on that first day, but by the end of it we were wondering if we would indeed make it through the next 2 weeks of picking.  I think we went to bed at 9:30 that night.  The next day we picked Auxerrois, a much more difficult grape to pick as the vines were quite vigorous, and we had to fight our way through walls of foliage just to get to the grapes.  9 pm was our bedtime that night.  The third day it rained.  As I stood there in the vineyard on that rainy Wednesday morning, my neck and shoulders aching, my hands cold and wet, I was ready to throw in the towel.  How was I going to make it through another 10 days of this?  When we were called down the slope for lunch, I thought I understood one of the bosses say that we were done for the day (my French is not very good).  My spirits lifted and I looked up at him and said, “à demain?”

“Lundi,” he said.

“Lundi? Vraiment?” I asked.

“Oui, Lundi.”

A wave of relief washed over ‘Team Canada’.  We had 4 days off!  We practically danced back to the car.  We spent the next 4 days travelling around Burgundy and even made a day trip up to Champagne.

When we returned to work on Monday we knew we only had a week left.  We were tired and sore, but we made it.  I think our bodies even got used to it a bit.  I have wonderful memories of the 2011 vendange in Burgundy, but would I do it again?  I think once is enough.

Three Wines to Pair with BBQ’d Burgers

Canadians’ love affair with the barbecue is so deep that many of us will don huge, over-sized parkas, stand outside in the blistering cold of January, risk frost-bitten noses, and patiently wait for the perfect level of doneness of whatever we’ve thrown on the grill, as the icy wind constantly threatens to extinguish our precious flame.  All this just for a taste of summer – the charred smoky flavours of grilled meat.  But, thankfully those frigid days are behind us, for another year anyway, and barbequeing is so much easier in the warmer months.  In fact, summertime screams BBQ!

Many people may associate beer with the barbecue, but statistics show that Canadians may, in fact, be reaching for a glass of wine instead.  Sales of wine in Canada have increased in the last decade, while sales of beer, still our ‘national’ beverage, have declined.

So, what wine should you serve with a beautifully barbecued beef burger?  Well, the wine should be full and flavourful, and have the structure to stand up to the beef’s boldness.  Ripe fruit flavours, spice, and a hint of smokiness from judicious ageing in oak, will complement the flavours in the charred meat.  The wine should also have sufficient acidity to match the usually more acidic toppings we like to heap on our burgers, such as mustard, ketchup, and relish.  I prefer red wine with my burgers.  There are many red grape varieties that fit the bill, but three of my favourites to pair with bbq’d burgers are:

Malbec:

Since the Argentine’s are probably more in love with grilled meats than even Canadians, it’s not surprising that their favourite grape, Malbec, is a great match.  Most of the Malbecs we see in the LCBO are, in fact, from Argentina (and 90% of those are from Mendoza), but if you look you may be able to find a few from the French region of Cahors.  You may even find the odd bottle from Chile, California, and Canada, but these are much more rare.  Velvety, approachable, and full of fruit flavours, Malbec is very versatile with a number of grilled meats and most bottles are very reasonably priced.  Read “The Argentine Malbec Experience” for more information on Argentina’s flagship grape, or read “French Malbec” to learn more about Malbec from it’s original homeland.

Shiraz/Syrah:

Wines made from Shiraz/Syrah often have an inherent smoky, meaty character, which along with spice and black pepper notes, can be a perfect match for grilled burgers.  Many regions around the world grow great Shiraz/Syrah.  Great examples from Australia, California, Okanagan Valley, and of course, the northern Rhone (look for the appellations of Cote Rotie, Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage, Cornas) can easily be found. In the Southern Rhone, Syrah is generally blended with other grapes, mainly Grenache.  There are also a few good examples in Ontario and BC.  In Australia, the wines will be labelled as Shiraz, and these wines, coming from a warmer climate, are big and oozing with ripe fruit flavours, spice and chocolate.  In the cooler Rhone Valley in France, the grape is called Syrah, and will show a more floral, smoky, herbal quality.  Other places, such as California, the Okanagan Valley (BC), and numerous other regions may use either name to label their wines.

Zinfandel:

DNA fingerprinting at University of California at Davis has proven it’s the same as Italy’s Primitivo, but it is in California where Zinfandel really shines.  When say Zinfandel, I am speaking of quality red wines, not the mass-produced, bland, slightly sweet pink version.  Red Zinfandel is relatively low in tannins and high in fruit flavours, ranging from red berries to black currants, plums, prunes, and raisins.  Spice and floral notes are also very common.  Zinfandel pairs wonderfully with Burgers, especially Chili Burgers!  Zinfandel in California has become so popular that it has created a resurgence of the variety in Italy.  Many Italian versions are even labelling their wines with the grape name Primativo to make it easier for consumers to recognize.  I’ve even seen a few Italian bottles labelled as Zinfandel.

There are many other wines you may enjoy with your bbq’d burgers – leave me a comment and let me know your favourites.

Chill Out with Cool Red Wines – Beaujolais, Barbera, Pinot Noir, etc.

Next Tuesday officially marks the beginning of summer and you may be wondering what wines to stock up on for your drinking pleasure. Many of you are probably thinking about cool whites, but red wine doesn’t need to be forgotten. Here is a list of light, refreshing red wines that can even be served slightly chilled.  This article was first published on Suite101.com last summer.

When the mercury rises, many of us reach for a chilled beverage such as white wine or a cold beer to quench our thirst, reserving red wines for the cooler months. While a full-bodied, tannic Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah, or a high-alcohol Zinfandel or Amarone, may seem soupy and unpleasant in the hot summer sun, there are some reds that can be quite thirst quenching.

When choosing a red wine to enjoy in the summer, look for lighter bodied versions that are low in tannin, higher in acidity, and full of fresh fruit flavours. And don’t be afraid to stick these wines in the ice bucket, as wines with this profile have structures similar to that of white wine, making them suitable candidates for chilling.

Beaujolais

Hailing from the southern part of Burgundy, Beaujolais is the quintessential summer red. Beaujolais is made with the Gamay grape and is naturally light in tannins and body, and a method of production, called carbonic maceration, helps make wines bursting with fresh berry flavours. Look for wines labelled as Beaujolais, Beaujolais-Villages, or Beaujolais Nouveau, although the latter will probably be very difficult to find by the time summer roles around. Beaujolais labelled with the name of one of the ten villages known as Crus Beaujolais, are typically bigger and fuller and won’t be as refreshing in the heat.

Barbera

Wines made from the Barbera grape in the Piedmont region of Italy can also be light enough to enjoy in the heat. There are two styles of Barbera; the young, light, and fruity version, and the dark and serious version. When choosing a summer wine, choose the former. If you’re unsure of what to choose at the wine store, look for the less expensive versions as these are usually the younger versions that have not seen much time in oak, if any at all.

Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir comes in a myriad of styles from light and refreshing to deep, dark, and brooding. When choosing a Pinot Noir to enjoy in the summer, look for the lighter styles with lots of cherry and red berry flavours. Pinot Noir can also be found at a huge range of prices. Don’t put an expensive one in the fridge as these are typically more complex and chilling it will only dull some of its character.

Many wine regions around the world produce good quality Pinot Noirs. Keep an eye out for some good value ones from countries such as Chile and Argentina. The lesser-known French wine region of Languedoc also makes some good examples of lighter Pinot Noirs. Don’t forget about Ontario where some excellent Pinot Noir is produced.

Cabernet Franc

Care needs to be taken when choosing a Cabernet Franc, as this grape also makes a range of styles of wine. The Loire Valley in France produces very tasty, lighter-styles of Cabernet Franc. Look for the reds from the appellations of Chinon and Bourgueil for some cool options.

Cabernet Franc is also very successful in Ontario where it can make some big, full-bodied wines, and some lighter versions as well. Ask the product consultant at your local wine store for recommendations or lighter-bodied versions if you intend to chill them.

Valpolicella and Bardolino

Valpolicella and Bardolina both come from the Veneto region in Italy and are made with a blend of the same grapes: Corvina, Molinara, and Rondinella. Valpolicella is the better known of the two and can be readily found in wine stores throughout Canada. When purchasing a refreshing summer Valpolicella, avoid the ones that say Amarone, Recioto, or Ripasso on the labels as these are the more robust versions, and Recioto happens to be a sweet wine.

Bardolino is made with less of the Corvina grape and a higher proportion of the more neutral Rondinella grape, producing an even lighter-bodied wine than Valpolicella.

Pairing Light Red Wines with Food

Light-bodied red wines, such as Gamays and Pinot Noirs, that are full of fresh fruit flavours are the perfect pairing with picnic foods such as ham or turkey sandwiches, cold cuts, fresh cheese, fish, and even hot dogs.

Cabernet Franc tends to have more body and tannins and are great when paired with barbecued hamburgers and even grilled steaks.

Serving Reds Chilled

If you are chilling a red wine, serve it slightly warmer than you would a white wine – ideally at about 12 to 14 degrees Celsius. About an hour in the refrigerator or half an hour in the freezer should chill it enough. When putting wine in the freezer, be sure to set a timer to avoid cleaning up a big mess if you happen to get distracted and the bottle explodes.

Putting the bottle in an ice bucket filled with water and ice for about 20 minutes will also bring the wine’s temperature down to a nice chill. Adding a good dose of salt to the ice and water mixture will cool the wine even faster.

It isn’t recommended that you put ice cubes directly into the wine as this will only dilute it. Dropping a couple of frozen grapes into the wine will help keep it sufficiently cool on a hot summer day.

Great Ontario VQA Wines to Pair with Easter Ham

With Easter just around the corner, you may be starting to plan a feast fit for a queen…or at least your family and friends. As with any special occasion, wine can play an important role. Wine not only tastes great on its own, but a carefully chosen one can also enhance the flavour of the food it’s paired with. This year, why not go local and choose a VQA wine from Ontario.  With so many styles of VQA wine available there’s definitely a great match for whatever dish you decide to serve.  This post was inspired by an article I wrote last year for Suite101.com, “Great Wines for an Easter Feast”.

Wine Pairings with Ham

The most popular Easter meal in North America usually focuses on ham as the main event.  Ham is a very versatile meat that can pair with white, rosé, and even some red wines. Ham has delicious, delicate flavours and is almost always salty. In order to balance this saltiness, it is common to add some sweetness to the dish in the form of brown sugar, honey, pineapples, or cloves. The best wines to pair with ham are light, very fruity, and, if it’s a red, low in tannins. Some excellent matches for ham are:

White:

Riesling: Riesling is generally a fruity wine with good acidity that can help cut through some of the richness of the ham.  Ontario’s cool climate and unique terroir provides growers and winemakers almost perfect conditions to make excellent Rieslings.  A few of my favourites are:

Twenty Twenty-Seven Cellars Featherstone Vineyard Riesling 2009 VQA Twenty Mile Bench ($24.95 at Vintages or online). This virtual winery is winning high accolades from wine lovers and experts alike.  Absolutely delicious!

Tawse Sketches of Niagara Riesling 2009 VQA Niagara Peninsula($17.95 at Vintages or at the winery). This is my favourite go-to Riesling for a few years now.  It’s consistently good and well-priced.

Chardonnay: A lightly oaked Chardonnay is perfect with ham served with pineapple. The light oak can match the slight smokiness of the ham and the wine’s fruit flavours will complement the pineapple. Great examples of Chardonnay can be found throughout the world, but it is becoming quite obvious to wine-lovers that Ontario also makes fabulous world-class Chardonnay.  Read my post called “Seriously Cool Canadian Chardonnay” for a longer list of amazing Ontario Chardonnays, but here are a few more:

Rosewood Estates Winery Reserve Chardonnay 2008 VQA Beamsville Bench ($25 at the winery).  Aromatic, elegant and bursting with lively acidity.

Huff Estates South Bay Vineyards Chardonnay 2007 VQA Prince Edward County ($29.95 at Vintages, at the winery, and online). This wine won ‘White Wine of the Year’ at the Ontario Wine Awards in 2010.  Not much is left at the LCBO so get it quick.

Rosé:

Rosé: Rosé wine sales are on the rise, and it’s no wonder – they can be quite tasty and refreshing and can be a great match to many dishes, including ham. Look for dry or off-dry versions.

Malivoire Ladybug Rosé 2009 VQA Niagara Peninsula ($15.95 at Vintages, at the winery, and online) A blend of mostly Cabernet Franc with some Gamay and Pinot Noir.  Delicious and refreshing with bright fruit flavours.

Southbrook Vineyards Cabernet Rosé 2009 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake ($18.95 at the winery) A blend of mostly Cabernet Franc with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. This is a certified organic and biodynamic wine that even the Martha Stewart Radio Blog recommends!

Sparkling Rosé:  For something even more special, try a sparkling rosé.

13th Street Cuvee 13 Rosé NV ($24.95 at the winery and online).  A blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay made using the traditional method.  13th Street is one of the leaders of quality sparkling wine in Ontario. Buy any of their sparkling wines and you won’t be disappointed.

Hillebrand Trius Brut Rose ($29.95 at the winery). A blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and a little Pinot Meunier, made using the traditional method.  If you’re at Hillebrand, be sure to take a tour of their incredible sparkling wine cellar.

Red:

Gamay: Gamay is best known in the wines of Beaujolais, but Ontario also produces great examples of fruit-filled Gamays.  Wines made from Gamay, also called Gamay Noir, are low in tannin and have an abundance of fruit flavours, making them tasty partners with ham.  Ontario versions tend to be fuller-bodied and have darker fruit flavours and a bit more spice than their Beaujolais counterparts.

Chateau des Charmes Gamay Droit 2008 VQA St David’s Bench ($14.95 at the LCBO, at the winery, and online)  This special clone of Gamay, called Gamay Droit, was discovered in 1982 in a Chateau des Charmes vineyard and is now considered “Canada’s first vinifera”.  The vine shoots grow in a upward (droit) position and the grapes ripen later than other Gamays.  The resulting wines are fuller-bodied with more alcohol and flavour concentration.  A delicious warm weather red wine and it goes great with ham.

13th Street Gamay Noir 2008 ($17.95 at the winery, online, and there’s a bit left at the LCBO)  Not only does this winery make stellar sparkling wine, but they also make wonderful Gamay Noirs.  This wine is full of juicy red fruit and white pepper flavours with a touch of vanilla from the 12 months of ageing in oak.

Pinot Noir: This grape can produce many different styles of wine, from very light and almost Beaujolais-like, to deep, dark and brooding. When pairing with ham look for the lighter versions with vibrant fruit flavours and a touch of spice. Pinot Noir from Ontario fits the bill perfectly and is a great pairing with ham and mustard.

Flat Rock Cellars Pinot Noir 2009 VQA Twenty Mile Bench ($19.95 at the winery, online, and the LCBO)  Medium-bodied and full of spicy red berry flavours, and at under $20 it’s a great value too.

Norman Hardie County Pinot Noir 2009 VQA Prince Edward County ($35 at the winery and online) Ripe red berry fruit, violets, and a touch of spice.  A delicious Pinot from Prince Edward County.

Chocolate Desserts:

Since chocolate easter eggs and bunnies seem to be popular at this time of year, read “Wine and Chocolate – What More Could You Ask For?” for ideas on wines to pair with your chocolate treats.

If you prefer serving lamb for Easter dinner, then look for my upcoming post recommending Ontario VQA wine with lamb.

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 976 other followers

%d bloggers like this: